Hello all, I am currently rolling a 2009 SF I bought new in Dec 2012.
All I have done to it is rejet, snorkel pull, and FMF Q4.

I am leaving out for the TAT around Aug 23 or so. I need to make this little guy as dirt worthy as possible before then.

I have had Shinko 244 tires on my 17" wheels on there for a while, an they do ok. I am trying to find dirt wheels but have been unsuccessful so far.
How big of a disadvantage are the small wheels?

What can be done with the hard *** factory suspension setup between now and then?

Also plan on a good skidplate, cyclerack, shift star upgrade, bigger pegs,better bars and bark busters, and a seat concepts seat.

What am I missing for a 5000 mile trip?

I live in SE Alabama and due to time I will not be able to complete it all. I would like to make it halfway thru CO before turning around, I got about 18 days or so.

Any advice is appreciated!

 

Buddy of mine just did a leg of it on his KLR650, turned about halfway through CO. From the pictures he showed you don't really need anything super dirt worthy to make it, and my biggest concern on the KLX would be fuel range. He reported an average of 80 miles between fuel stops and the biggest gap of 160 miles between fuel stations.

ADVrider - View Single Post - Arkansas Ride Reports

 

Forgot to mention I will be getting a larger tank, and will be carrying an extra gallon.

 

Assuming you're jetted correctly for Alabama, take about a 5 number smaller main jet. May also want to drop the needle a notch.

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Agree with wildcard and Dynobob. I've never seen anything on the map or the TAT ride reports that indicated a need for a full blown off road bike with anything approaching a decent rider. Mud during rainy periods was some of the worst conditions I noticed. A 1-stage drop on the main jet and a 1-notch clip leaner on the needle should provide near ideal jetting, but frankly what little time you'll spend at real elevation crossing some passes isn't worth the hassle in my opinion. It will be a surprisingly short period to suffer through with your bike. It's definitely worth a rejet when you're going to spend a few days in high mountain, high pass country, but your crossing of these passes will go quickly on a TAT ride if you're just following the TAT straight through.

On using an SF, you'll be fine with the right tires. I'm not up on those particular Shinkos, but they look like Kenda 270's. I rode off road for a week with a guy in the Big Bend area of Texas who had a Yamaha WRX250 with the 270's. There was nothing he couldn't ride with those tires. They stuck quite well. They looked pretty neat on those 17" wheels.

 

I believe there will be some water crossings!?!?! The T-mod would be worth it.
Disable the kickstand switch if u haven't already.
HHmmmmm let me think!?!

 

The kickstand mod, def will do, didn't think about that.

I'm not aware of the T mod. Will try to find out more on that.

Thanks!

 

It's funny...I'm not dissin' the T-mod...better safe than sorry. However, in all the years since the 80's with 4 KLR600/650's, a KLX, and other bikes in enduro competitions, I've never done the T-mod and never had a fuel feed issue as a result. Colorado and Utah river crossings, rainy enduro races, etc...I'm a little surprised I haven't experienced an issue at some point. Just sayin'...not slamin'.

 

That's because you ride so damn fast there's not enough time to have a problem. You're out of the river before the bike even knows it got wet.

 

Make sure you have one hell of a good tool set. Spare tubes, tire irons, zip ties, jbweld, an assortment of allen wrenches and sockets, spare master link, maybe even a spare chain! If you think you have enough, add 5-10 more items. Better to have and not need, than to need and not have