yeah I buy mostly cheap lithium polymer batteries for my rc helicopters
since they mostly run at high speed you dont have much use time
I have a low cell alarm that starts to beep once one cells gets too low so that helps save the battery as I dont run it down too low, plus you would crash if it just turns off

most devices even tools will stop running automatically once you reach like 3.8v per cell or whatever they set it too
each cell charged is 4.2 volts
so not much difference between them, but they will run almost 100% even at 3.8v which is why lithium is great for rc hobbies and tools

and charging I think is the biggest risk of fire, if it doesnt automatically stop thats when they swell and catch on fire
why few years ago all those laptops were doing that
bad charging circuits
I had one that almost caught on fire I took the battery out and it was hot to the touch for 3 days
but my serial number was just past the recalled ones so I had to eat the $80 for a new laptop battery


I just dont think bikes right now can benefit from them

 

well I plug in my i phone 2-3 times a day at around half charge
so if it only lasts 1000 times like that then next year at this time it should be dead, or close to it since I just got it recently

if it more like 1000 full charges then maybe it will last 3 years?

we will see

 

I wish... If 1000 was at ideal conditions and done in a lab chances are no.

That's the downside to lab data lol... doesn't always fit the real world.

Especially since the phone gets hot n what not from time to time... I don't know how the new iphones are but even with my droids when I plug them in to "let them charge" while I am in the middle of a conversation, they get pretty damn hot from time to time. Of which just kills the battery life... but I tend to destroy phones long before the battery is an issue, so it works out great.

 

Back to the OP's question.
Figure out how many of those 200 available watts are already used by lights and see what you have left over. If it's more than the gear you want to use then you are good to go. If it's less, you could still do it, but might need to regulate the power you use, by turning down or off 10 minutes before you get to where you are going, to give the battery some juice without it being drawn off so fast, or make sure you put it on a charger before going back out.
What about a LiFe battery? Seems to be the LiIon replacement these days.

 

Yea the Shorai is LiFe, its more stable and rugged.

But still a victim of lithium battery characteristics.

 

That's too bad was hoping to shed a few pounds with one. 1000 cycles will add up quick for me, maybe I'll just use one when racing(if I race this bike).

 

Well the life of the Shorai is what I'm looking to find out.

The charging issues of special chargers MikeW was referring to is "memory" I believe, amoung other topics (proper voltage levels, since the battery can exhibit memory to irregular voltages), and since his hobbyist batteries are most likely Li-Fe, maybe it applies to the shoria... I dont like the idea of a special charger either.


cycles are used because it strongly correlates with lithium battery life, but its a bit different with batteries that remain charged... so I have no idea and will stop pretending I know more than I do. :-)

 

Don't get me wrong MP, if you're looking to lighten your ride, a lithium battery is one of the most cost-effective ways to do it. Think of all the little titanium farkles guys spend hundreds or thousands on just to save a few ounces.

But you're right, back to the OP's question regarding heated gear, it's my experience that there is no need to worry about either needing a lithium battery, or exceeding the charging system's capacity with a simple vest & gloves...

 

OK, thanks for all the input guys. I am all for spending money if it's well spent, but from the discussion here, the Shorai may be mostly a weight savings play. I have an 848 Corse race bike that gets the weight treatment, so I have no interest in making the KLX any lighter. 18 hp will only get you so much oomph, no matter how light!

I checked Gerbing's website and they list 32 watts for gloves and 103 watts for the jacket liner. Anyone know if the headlight and taillight / brakelight etc. is drawing more than 65 watts? I am thinking the jacket is a no-go, if we only have 200 watts total.

 

Apparently you guys aren't paying attention.

Took this $45 Li ion battery out of my KLX (after a year) and put it in my car. Used it all last season. 12-1 compression, so it's not an easy start. It has a hard time starting it once the temps are in the freezing range, but it still does, once it warms up from a few tries.