thanks man for the help, but the voltage that comes to headlight from the stator is only 3v..I dont know why..

i tried to do as you wrote already a week ago, but the magneto doesn't give my enough voltage..
when i did that, i noticed that when I push the fan switch "on", it stealing like 60% power from the headlight, and the fan doesn't roll. it doesn't get enough power.

I checked it with a 12V battery, and it works fine...

by the way, this is my wiring diagram: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/151/photo1678.jpg/
the wire that i am talking about is the + that goes to the regulator.
and that wire is my only choice

thanks

 

Wait a second... I'm trying to wrap my brain around this.

1) Ur saying if you turn your power on (turn key on)

2) Pull your head light fuse

3) Then take a voltage reading from the pin with potential (the pin you could get a test light to light up with) to a known ground (the frame for example). That this is only giving you a Voltage reading of 3V?

This doesn't make sense... you run a 12v H4 bulb...

The voltage for the light comes from the battery (the battery is 12v...), the stator charges you batter... this keeps a ballast effect for electrical surges n such...

How is the rest of you electrical system performing on the bike... 3V at the stator shouldn't be enough to even keep the battery charged to start the bike. Its not power you need for the fan its Voltage, you need pressure to excite the fields.

 

I have KLX year 95 it doesn't have any battery.
if i want to check voltage i need to start it first

you know what?? it realy doesnt make any sanse because if the bulb is 12v, so it shouldn't work at all...

ohhhhhh that bike is killing meeeee

 

Problem is you have an older bike... I'm sorry I didn't realize you had this old of a bike (didn't see a model number or anything).

Is the voltage your reading AC or DC.....? THIS is very important, typical systems like this produce AC waveform, which is what I'm thinking yours is producing.

If so your out of luck, our systems run 12v DC.

The fan you purchased is DC obviously since you stated you hooked it up to a battery and it ran fine.

You may be able to obtain a similar AC motor (you would have to put some research into it), but its going to have the same power sucking effects at low idle, there's just nothing you can do about that...

Edit: maybe you could hook up a buck of capacitors to float out the wave form into DC lol, Jk JK :-)

 

ohh i understant...

my engine does'nt different from yours..
if i'll by new stator and new CDI (like yours), I can overcome that problem right ??

do you think my engine will survive long-term off road driving without a fan ??
I'm from israel, and the weather is HOT here

 

The real problem is the battery I'm afraid, even our systems produce very low potentials at idle. You need a battery to carry you through the low idle times, and to restore energy back into itself during the high rpm times.

 

It should be fine, the fan is only useful when your moving excessively slow... just avoid that if possible.

 

If the fan doesn't work, you could install a temperature gage in the coolant exit line so you could watch temps.

 

thanks!
the engine is after 300 cc bore kit...it works perfect, and powerfull !!!!!
with a 36mm MIKUNI carb.

I hope it won't get any damage by over heating

 

yes you right !!
I will do that thanks!