klx 250s 2006 Loud Clicking sound not valve
#12
Mine is quiet now... the timing chain was actually bad, wore out in less than 8K miles... thats after 2 heads, 2 sets of valves, cylinder, exhaust cam, piston... i think thats most of it.....
#13
thank you guys for help
well just to get back at you folks i appericate all the assitance and time. Im sure to keep comign here for the community alone. For my issue it was the chain tensioner losened it 2 turns noise was gone. So i ordered a new spring hoping this fixes the problem. Once again thanks. Thats all folks
#15
well just to get back at you folks i appericate all the assitance and time. Im sure to keep comign here for the community alone. For my issue it was the chain tensioner losened it 2 turns noise was gone. So i ordered a new spring hoping this fixes the problem. Once again thanks. Thats all folks
#16
Congrats on the progress Tweakinsleep. A new chain and guides may be needed as mentioned above if you have been running this thing with this issue. A better CCT periodic maintenance may be in order. I would prolly move to the manual tensioner after this experience. Although none of my rides have one yet. Good luck
#17
A new spring isn't going to fix it. you may have a valve problem after all. If you let the cam chain get lose enough it may be keeping the parts from hitting together. I am now thinking you have some internal parts hitting each other.
#18
I am now thinking you have some internal parts hitting each other.
#19
I know some have replaced all the guide blocks and such when they did their worn out cam chain, but at 11000 miles when I replaced my chain, I was surprised to see the cam sprockets, crank sprockt, and guide blocks were all in great shape. I even had the local "wizard" dude who's an engine builder and all-around guru look at them. He even used some kind of deal that looks like one of those jeweler magnifiers to inspect those components. And he must have been right. Upon reassembly of all parts with just a new chain, it was quiet, and the cam sprocket alignment marks at TDC were dead level with the head surface as they should be. Before there was a noticeable mismatched angle at the cams. I also did the pin measurement on the chain as per the manual...definitely out of spec.
deej, I don't think he has a valve problem. That noise is the classic cam chain slop. When he's talking about loosening something, he's referring to loosening the whole tensioner body at the two bolts like Learjet had suggest some time back. Then he retightened the bolts which actually does tighten the chain, because the tensioner plunger has extended a bit on the ratchet when he first backed out those mounting bolts. Make sense? It's not the way I would recommend it, but it can work. The new or heavier spring he refers to is probably an new tensioner spring in hopes of it being better to push the plunger against the guide block.
Tweak's engine may be fixing to explode from other reasons or problems...I don't know. But I'll bet a whole nickel that his noise there is a loose cam chain. And then there's the evidence that he did Learjet's method of backing off the tensioner bolts and the problem went away. That's about as conclusive as it gets...at least on the internet.
deej, I don't think he has a valve problem. That noise is the classic cam chain slop. When he's talking about loosening something, he's referring to loosening the whole tensioner body at the two bolts like Learjet had suggest some time back. Then he retightened the bolts which actually does tighten the chain, because the tensioner plunger has extended a bit on the ratchet when he first backed out those mounting bolts. Make sense? It's not the way I would recommend it, but it can work. The new or heavier spring he refers to is probably an new tensioner spring in hopes of it being better to push the plunger against the guide block.
Tweak's engine may be fixing to explode from other reasons or problems...I don't know. But I'll bet a whole nickel that his noise there is a loose cam chain. And then there's the evidence that he did Learjet's method of backing off the tensioner bolts and the problem went away. That's about as conclusive as it gets...at least on the internet.
#20
Oh ok that makes sense. I actually took the center bolt out this past week, and pushed the adjuster in one click and now its as quiet as ever before. I can't believe it took me 5 years to figure this thing out. I am now sure that the cam that I had replaced at around 2000 miles was fine. They also gave me a new tension-er, and what I am discovering is that there really should be a stronger spring in there. I had to push pretty hard to get it to click.