I did a search but couldn’t find kacr removal info. Iirc there was info on planetklx that Brewster posted regarding making an aluminum jig to hold the kacr mechanism to facilitate pressing out the klx camshaft to retime the kacr on the camshaft. I didn’t save any of that info and the planetklx website has gone extinct now. The reason I’m looking for that is to install the kacr on a aftermarket camshaft. Keng has big bore kits complete with his cams that made gains in hp over what can be attained with the stock Oem klx250s cams. The dyno results posted were well above the dyno results posted by Bill Blue with his big bore kit, mikuni 33/34 pumper carb and the Barker exhaust. So looking to refresh my mind for pressing off the kacr and reinstalling onto Kengs camshafts before any purchase. Thanks if you have any information to share

 

I had the same question for Keng engine when I did the klx402 big bore kit last year. I asked Keng about the KACR and he said it's not needed. I have the higher lift camshafts that Keng offers with the 402 kit. When I asked Keng about the compression ratio he said 12.8 to 1. You'd think that much compression you'd need to release some for starting, so far I haven't had any issues with starting. I do have a lithium battery with more CCA than a stock battery and so far so good.

 

There are KLX650 riders that have removed the KACR on their 650s and they turn over a lot harder than the 250. The CR on the 250 is definitely overkill and a remainder of the KLX250/300 kick start models of the 90s-early 2000s. I fired my 250 up in single digit temperatures, fired almost instantly. It had the jetting done so it starts quickly, not a bunch of cranking.

 

Thanks for your experiences, much appreciated. Thinking back the reason Brewster retimed the kacr was for the decomp to work in sync for the idler gear bushing life on the early klx300 without electric starting. Mucho Gracias again

 

I don't think the reason in power difference is due to the cams. Cams help, but the main reason is that Keng's dyno shows EFI bike and BB shows carb bike with completely different ignition curves. Carburated klx250s USA spec don't make decent power due to very conservative ignition.
As for KACR - I run 2020+ klx300R cams (without KACR mechanism) and i don't have any problems starting 355.

 

I agree that the stock ignition advance limits acceleration. I read about the Paray cdi, Mojave atv cdi, and the 35 degree advance austrailian cdi. Nothing is plug and play for the 09. Kengs cams are probably the best bang for the buck after the mods I’ve done on the 09. Thanks for your thoughts

 

The paray CDI comes with the two different ignition curves. To get the 35 degree advance you simply install the jumper plug. I have one of the 06-07 klx paray CDI boxes on my klx402 engine but I haven't used the 35 degree advance yet. I was debating about trying it if I do a dyno run. Paray makes a CDI box for the 09+ klx

 

Did a proper hard (and slow) off road ride on my 355. So engine worked really hot. What I noticed - bike definitely starts harder when hot. To the extend I though that my battery is dying. I used my old standard 70 CCA battery today (which starts bike just fine when engine is not that hot).

 

You can still find old version on the wayback machine: https://web.archive.org/web/20180104...planetklx.org/