Can also be too low of an idle, it happens with singles where the act of braking quickly can stall the engine. I think it is possibly the quick shut off of the fuel making a lean condition. Either way, in a conversation about turning my 650 into a supermoto I was informed one of the things that should be done is to raise the idle to keep it running under heavy braking and when backing the bike into a turn (like I've ever really done that on pavement). They said run around 2000 rpm for that. I found my 650 did well at around 1200-1300 rpm idle and the 250 right now is at around 1800. I learned on my 500 that sometimes with low idles singles will cough and stall too.

Try turning up your idle a couple hundred rpm.

 

Ya know now that I think of it the bike will start with the Kickstand down already. Ill double check to see if the last owner bypassed this feature.

But even then, the bike still shuts down If I slam on the brakes.

 

The bike should start with the kickstand down, provided it's in neutral. Try dropping the kickstand while it's in gear.

Try Mark's suggestion about increasing idle.

 

I have the idle set at 1700 or so as I had a few stalls when doing stoppies, dropping off of loading docks etc

 

Mine does the occasional "flame out" as well. Fine tuning the jetting and raising the idle as mentioned has helped.

 

Adjusted the idle and that helped! Thanks y'all

Also, Im going to be rebuilding my suspension this weekend. Springs + Gold Valves.

Anyone have some advice when installing the gold valve cartridges?

 

What year bike and Gold Valve part #

Racetech instructions were pretty good. Nothing difficult, just take your time, keep things spotless, keep track of your parts and the order they are in. Calipers are handy... required really.

In my limited experience I think Racetech's suggested setup is on the firm side... good for faster riders.

NOTE: You only get one shot at the Racetech website for settings... print your pages!

Took me 2 or 3 tries to get mine where I liked. By the time you pull everything apart for the third time, you can do it with your eyes closed...lol

 

I have an 09. Gold Valves Part #FMGV2001. .51 Spring rate as I ride mostly street.

Its the drilling of the damper that's daunting

 

I see.. I used a different kit on my '09 which included just the valve head? and shims. I believe the 2001 kit replaces the entire valve body at the bottom of the fork. Drilling was not a problem, it's pretty soft, just make sure you have the correct size drill bit. If I remember, there was a small indentation where you are supposed to drill, so you are really just completing the hole.

 

Right on. Thanks for the tips Abramsgunner. Ill touch back w an update in after I complete the jawb.