Here are some photos of the tensioner I pulled from my 15,000 mile KLX250 I just got. See if you can pick out the tooth that has been chipped and rounded and by the wear pattern, just how far in and out the plunger would move - and think how much play that allows in the cam drive:






And the pictures aren't nearly as clear as just plain looking at it.

Now if you don't see the problem... ain't nothin' I can do for ya.

It's not about selling tensioners, it's about keeping your KLX running right for you. That's what it was when I was selling bikes and talking with customers and that is what it still is - I'm a motorcyclist at heart and hate to see bikes damaged. The previous owner of my bike pulled the cap and spring then smacked the plunger in, over-tightening the cam drive. I put in the adjuster yesterday - that inside fastener is a bit of a pain to put in without taking off the pipe or something, but it still only took about 1/2 hour even at 35 deg F.

Now to check the valves and maybe do the cam timing change for now. Pull the carb and see what's inside...

 

Just like the claimed klr650 doohickey problems, it's all internet lore.


Edit: I still have my auto tensioner in a box somewhere. From what I recall, it looked a lot like that one.

 

I can't remember exactly but I replaced mine at less than 2000 miles with one of yours and my stock piece looked just like that one. There was no question if it was needed as the bike sounded like it was ready to come apart and I was worried I had some more serious issues until I found the cause. I've got 6000 or so of quiet and carefree miles since the change to a manual tensioner.

 

I knew it was likely to show some wear, but clearly it had been jamming around in there for a while. I never knew internet lore could be so destructive!

Edit:
I realized the comment was likely facetious and so is mine.

Got the risers on the bike yet? I'm so darn short in the upper body having them on the bike felt like I was riding with ape hangers!

 

So what manual tensioner do you guys run? Do you set it and forget it or have to adjust it periodically?

 

The Kreiger, being a manual adjuster and parts do wear, Yes, there is periodic adjustment req'd. Interval depends on when the noise resumes. It's not something you'd do very often.
PM klx678, he makes them.

 

This dealie? KLX650 KLR650/250 DRz400

 

Geez... that looks familiar. Oh... yeah, now I remember... that's me.

Seriously, once the cam chain is seated in (broken in) the wear is fairly minimal. When I started with new chains (2 on the 650) I had to adjust the tensioner a few times in the first 10,000 miles or so and then a few more times over the next 25,000 miles (total 30,000 miles). It has been adjusted 4 times, but I don't remember when the last time was. The chains are seated in and it holds pretty well. Same thing with the one on my ZR550 Zephyr, around 12,000 miles and no adjustment needed yet.

You simply listen to the cam drive. Occasionally when you stop, pull off your helmet and listen for cam drive ticking. When you hear ticking, and it won't be anywhere near as loud as when the OEM one is bad, you do the slight adjustment needed while the engine is running. I've found it is usually less than 1/4 turn to take the ticking away making for virtually perfect adjustment. Harder to explain than do.

You will be checking the valves more often than you will be adjusting the manual tensioner per my experience. I need to do the 650 valves now, but the cam drive is still silent when warmed up.

Having a manual tensioner also makes adjusting the valves easier since the tensioner does not spring in or need reset when you remove the cams. You just leave it in the bike. It should hold pretty much the same as before the cams are pulled. On the 650, which is shim over bucket I can take the cam cap off and tilt the cams to change out the shims. I only wish that was the way it would work on the 250.

I will say if you don't hear the noise from the cam drive at 4000-5000 rpm you may not need to do the manual unit. I will also tell you the tensioner does not fail in catastrophic fashion. It will develop the clicking and noise a bit gradually. You just want to catch it as soon as possible. You can ride without damage for several hundred miles easily. It's when you let it go for thousands that the cam chain and sliders get worn. That's what bit me - all the guys saying "all Kaw engines are noisy." Now I will tell you No they aren't all noisy. You need to know where the noise is coming from and if it is something that can be harmful. In the case of cam drive noise, yes it can be harmful.

I made the 250 unit when a couple of riders contacted me apparently after reading or hearing about the tensioners I did for the KLX650 or something. One followed through, helping me with the details to make the part. TNC is still running the prototype. I appreciated his help, especially now that I have a KLX250 too. I wasn't really fishing about to sell something that wasn't needed. I'm a motorcyclist first and a part builder second. It is about keeping bikes running right. That's why I will say again if there is no noise you don't need to do the adjuster.

PM or email me if you want to know more.

 

Since installed I have messed with mine once in about 6000 miles and it was because I was lazy when I put it on. I had noticed the noise again faint but I knew what it was as I'd been there and done that already. Well I didn't use Loctite with the initial install and the 2 bolts had worked there way out a bit, it wasn't ready for an adjustment just proper installation. Once done correctly I've had no issues.

 

I'll have to check next time I ride. I bought my bike new last year and I thought I noticed it get louder after a few thousand miles. Ironically I've got the same exact bike in red with me now. Its bran new with less then 300 miles on it. My buddy got bit by the KLX bug after he rode mine. I'll compare and report back later on.