if u get a pipe and it runs fine w/o rejetting how much power difference is it than if u di jet it

 

Probably all of it comes with the jetting after the in/out mods.I find it hard to belive you can make a lean bike leaner &have it be "fine".

 

If you put on a pipe you will need to rejet unless you happen to live at 7800ft. I think I am the only one here who is running the stock 118 main jetand I am running the N1TC adjustable needle (slot 2)
and have drilled the slide to 7/64.

 

You could possibly get away with not re-jetting if you don't mess with the airbox opening, but what's the point of that? The whole idea is to make the things flow better in order to make the bike perform better.

Once you open-upboth intake and exhaust, it's highly advisable to rejet, because a lean condition can cause heat damage to your piston and head. That's big money to pay for being stubborn about re-jetting.

You plan to buy an HMF anyway. They have a very detailed, easy to follow jetting guide -complete with photos- in their KLX exaust forum.

 

Ifyou do the re-jetting, new air filter, kdx220 snorkle, smog delete and nobrakes crankcase vent, can you start and ride the bike with the factory exhaust (until the new one arrives) without doing any damage or problems?

I ask this because all my stuff is suppose to arrivetoday/tomorrowexcept the exhaust is10 daysout.

 

That should be OK. I originally just rejetted, put in the hi flow snorkel and drilled the stock pipe 1/2 inch. It was a month or so later that I actually bought a new exhaust.

 

Thats good because I really wanted to at least fire it up after the tear down to make sure it works okay. I have drilled the baffle 1/2" so maybe that would help at least.