Installation of PowerBomb and M7
So after letting my parts sit in the garage for 2 weeks while the rains and frigid weather dictated my upgrade plans, I decided yesterday to knock out the installation of the UNI Filter, FMF Power Bomb, and 2 Brothers M7 Slip-on, which turned out to be anything but 

Got the UNI installed and removed the stocker exhaust (man that thing is heavy, lol)
I go to fit the Power Bomb and 2 Brother together and guess what? it no workie! I heard the power bomb scream, "It's TOO BIG to go inside me!"
The power Bomb flange, where the 2Bro pipe slides into it, is supposed to have a small section stretched a bit to a larger diameter in order to allow the M7 pipe to slip in, as shown in the pic below at the lower left of the pic:

(NOTE: This is just a pic of 2 different power bombs, not necessarily the one meant for the KLX250S. I just wanted to illustrate the difference in the end of the pipe. The expansion on the bottom pipe in the pic is much more pronounced than mine.)
My Power Bomb pipe had a barely noticable expansion where the two pipes meet. I have seen several installs using the power bomb and M7 so I was under the impression that the two would mate right up. No go.
If you've seen the stock pipe after it's been removed from the bike, you've seen a relief cut in one of the two sections where the two parts mate together. It lets one pipe compress slightly in order to fit inside the other.
What I did to get them to fit together was cut a relief into the M7 pipe where it is supposed to slip inside the header, so it would compress about 1/16th of an inch to slip inside the power bomb.
After doing that, it fit perfectly and I completed the installation.
5 words:
Damn. That. Thing. Is. LOUD.
Maybe it was because I ran the bike inside a metal garage, but damn, that thing is loud when you rev!
I went to 2Bros. site this morning and ordered the quietest tip they have so that I don't sound like I'm riding a 2T
Now all I need to do is remove the carb, drill the slide, set the air screw, and install the DynoJet Stage 2 kit...
Oh...and apply the rest of my stickers, lol (I need those extra HP that only stickers provide
)


Got the UNI installed and removed the stocker exhaust (man that thing is heavy, lol)
I go to fit the Power Bomb and 2 Brother together and guess what? it no workie! I heard the power bomb scream, "It's TOO BIG to go inside me!"
The power Bomb flange, where the 2Bro pipe slides into it, is supposed to have a small section stretched a bit to a larger diameter in order to allow the M7 pipe to slip in, as shown in the pic below at the lower left of the pic:

(NOTE: This is just a pic of 2 different power bombs, not necessarily the one meant for the KLX250S. I just wanted to illustrate the difference in the end of the pipe. The expansion on the bottom pipe in the pic is much more pronounced than mine.)
My Power Bomb pipe had a barely noticable expansion where the two pipes meet. I have seen several installs using the power bomb and M7 so I was under the impression that the two would mate right up. No go.
If you've seen the stock pipe after it's been removed from the bike, you've seen a relief cut in one of the two sections where the two parts mate together. It lets one pipe compress slightly in order to fit inside the other.
What I did to get them to fit together was cut a relief into the M7 pipe where it is supposed to slip inside the header, so it would compress about 1/16th of an inch to slip inside the power bomb.
After doing that, it fit perfectly and I completed the installation.
5 words:
Damn. That. Thing. Is. LOUD.

Maybe it was because I ran the bike inside a metal garage, but damn, that thing is loud when you rev!
I went to 2Bros. site this morning and ordered the quietest tip they have so that I don't sound like I'm riding a 2T
Now all I need to do is remove the carb, drill the slide, set the air screw, and install the DynoJet Stage 2 kit...
Oh...and apply the rest of my stickers, lol (I need those extra HP that only stickers provide
)
instead of using the pie cut method, i took both parts to my local muffler shop and the guy expanded the flange on the header until it was a perfect fit. the guy had to use the smallest adapter for the machine, and go real slow cause the metal is thin. best of all, no charge!
i was however very bummed with fmf's header bolt flange, weak metal with bad chrome job. mine's bent a little, i probably over tightened the bolts.
also, i added the p-1 tip to the m-7 to lessen the noise.(the p-1 wont fit with the spark arrestor). the fmf/2bros w/p-1 combo seems a little quiter than when i had just the stock header with the 2bros no p-1.
i was however very bummed with fmf's header bolt flange, weak metal with bad chrome job. mine's bent a little, i probably over tightened the bolts.
also, i added the p-1 tip to the m-7 to lessen the noise.(the p-1 wont fit with the spark arrestor). the fmf/2bros w/p-1 combo seems a little quiter than when i had just the stock header with the 2bros no p-1.
instead of using the pie cut method, i took both parts to my local muffler shop and the guy expanded the flange on the header until it was a perfect fit. the guy had to use the smallest adapter for the machine, and go real slow cause the metal is thin. best of all, no charge!
i was however very bummed with fmf's header bolt flange, weak metal with bad chrome job. mine's bent a little, i probably over tightened the bolts.
also, i added the p-1 tip to the m-7 to lessen the noise.(the p-1 wont fit with the spark arrestor). the fmf/2bros w/p-1 combo seems a little quiter than when i had just the stock header with the 2bros no p-1.
i was however very bummed with fmf's header bolt flange, weak metal with bad chrome job. mine's bent a little, i probably over tightened the bolts.
also, i added the p-1 tip to the m-7 to lessen the noise.(the p-1 wont fit with the spark arrestor). the fmf/2bros w/p-1 combo seems a little quiter than when i had just the stock header with the 2bros no p-1.
How they can ask that much for that piece of **** is beyond me. I consider myself a sucker for buying it. They'll never see another $ from me, I know that much.
Yeah I ordered the P3 as well. I made sure to read the Description to make sure it would work with the spark arrestor.
I received an email from "Humberto". He sent a canned response stating that they could issue an RMA# if I wanted. I replied that I never asked for am RMA, that I asked someone at FMF to contact me to let me know how a pipe in the condition I received mine in could make it all the way through the manufacturing and QA processes without being caught.
I received another canned response...
FMF = ****ing Mother ****ers to me now
I received another canned response...
FMF = ****ing Mother ****ers to me now
i have the p1 tip and the p4. The p1 will make your bike actually louder than the way the pipe comes because u have 2 take the (SA) spark arrester out. I know it sound crazy but that tip don't do ****. The SA make it quieter than that tip does. To fix that problem i had the flat side of the tip milled down to the size of the washer it comes with so it works with the SA. It sounded sweet in my opinion, but cruisin the road it was effin loud so i bought the p4 to be a little more stealthy. Same goes for that tip had to mill it down to work with the SA but sounds alot better, oh and it robs the top end a little bit. I really don't understand why 2bros doesn't have all thier tips work with the SA and just give u a spacer so if u don't want to use the SA.
That's to bad they didn't put any effort into their response to your issue. I hate when you get those Were sorry Mr/Mrs, insert name here, form replies. Well, now we all know.
"FMF = ****ing Mother ****ers to me now"
ha ha, well done.
"FMF = ****ing Mother ****ers to me now"
ha ha, well done.
+1, that's too bad. Sounds like they have their sales dept fielding technical and QA issues. Not good.
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larry0071
KLX 250S
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Mar 23, 2011 10:37 PM




