Don’t believe everything on Wikipedia, anyone can edit it. The part about the fuel sticking to the walls because of the fuel not atomizing is partially correct, that is where fuel injection shines. They left out another factor. Cooler air is denser. Heat excites atoms and causes them to occupy more volume in space. So there for, the hotter your air is, the thinner it is. Or, the cooler it is, the denser it is. Meaning; when the engine pulls air in, it pulls more when it is cold and less the hotter it is. In other words cold air causes a lean condition. The engine is “Tuned” for operating temperatures and it needs the little bit of fuel to richen the mixture until it is up to operating temperature. The carb on the KLX has a richening circuit not a choke. It works on the same principle but is the opposite in operation. Instead of choking off the air to richen the mixture it adds fuel to the mixture.

You don’t have to believe anything I write either, after all this is the internet. Anyone can make up believable Bull ****.

 

This is just crazy. The KLX is one cold blooded betch, I had to run the choke for about 10 min to keep it running. Now I got a pumper carb & it starts & warmup are less chokey.

 

Aside from my lazy cut and paste, the point I was trying to make is that the goal is to get your motor warmed up in the shortest amount of time. Your motor is happier when its running within its normal operating temperature range. You don't want to run it long cold. That's why the cooling fan is on a thermostat. Not using the choke long enough is a bad thing. IMO.

 

mine has had this same problem from the begining. I took the bike back to the dealer after a week, they told me they changed the compression release needle? it has run better this last year, but I still have to use the same start and warm up session as you mentioined, I use regular 87 fuel and the Kawasaki oil from the dealer?

 

just an update...i did my valve adjustment over the weekend...my inlet valves were out of spec after 8,600 miles...replaced both inlet valve shims....both exhaust valves were within specs...raining and cold morning...one push of the starter and started...it starts and idles without choke....don't even have to give throttle now..and, it feels like a new bike...it's feels lot more responsive...it just needed a valve adjustment...

 

I'm a big fan of Redline fluids. Use both their oil (5w-20) and ATF in my car.

I would personally stay away from semi-synthetic mixes and either stick with a true full synthetic or just a typical conventional oil.

Redline has significantly less friction from the zddp and moly along with the base oil and better ring seal.

Stay away from BP with their Invigorate additive crap packs. I prefer Shell V-Power or Marathon. Google around for engine tear down comparisons of carbon build up with one engine using X fuel and the other using Y fuel.

Sweet. This is something that I eventually need to learn how to do.

 

it's pretty easy, but you probably want somebody to talk you through it on the first time...just turning the cams and looking for the T....you actually have to look at the cams too...may take couple rotations and passing the T few times....

the cam chain tensioner...make sure you are careful when taking it out..there is a spring...press the tensioner all the way in also after you take it out just so you don't forget...

don't drop the cam chain!...remove the rear cam...stick a long screwdriver/rod/stick or zip tie it....remove the front cam....when putting the cam back..put the front one than the rear one....make sure you put it exactly the way you marked it...make sure the chain is tight int he front first before installing the front cam...if i remember correctly, you also need to count to make sure you have 32 pins from front to back...

when removing valve cover and cam cover...make sure you unscrew and screw in the bolts evenly little by little....do not unscrew or screw in the bolts completely one by one....

make sure you clean off and scrape off all the silicon...apparently this is very very important...little thicker layer of sealant around the half moon...and very very thin layer around....

do whatever it takes to remove the valve cover..that was probably the hardest part....the simplest thing was the hardest...i should have removed the ca emissions stuff, but i didn't have the right size plugs

 

on another note...after the valve adjustment...even cold raining mornings...i barely touch the start button and it starts...don't need to twist the throttle....don't even need the choke...amazing what a simple valve adjustment can do....

 

Did I call it or what?!

Amazing the difference it makes. You don't notice it because the decrease is so gradual.. But when you fix it, you fix it all at once and it's like**BAM** !

Good job.

 

Great thread. Great info. Thanks for sharing.