Hey guys i have noticed that some of you have "Idle Jet 2.5 turns out" at the bottom of your posts. Just a few Q's.
Does this give you any increase in power?
Can this be done alone or is it part of re-jetting and so on?
And last of all where is this screw hiding.

Just trying to get some free ponies for the bike.
Cheers.

 

It's actually the air/fuel screw, and it won't do anything for performance really - mainly affects the bike at idle. When the a/f screw is between 2 and 3 turns out, it is an indication that your pilot jet is pretty much spot on. If it needs to be more than 3 turns out it means your pilot jet is too lean, and conversely if you have to screw it in less than 2 turns your pilot jet is likely too rich.

 

Thanks arctra....i thought it might have been as elusive a her g spot.

 

It is hiding behind a metal cap you have to drill then screw a screw into to pop it out, then you can adjust it... EPA/DEP doesnt want us actually have bikes that run good.

 

A properly tuned slow jet helps performance in certain areas. It helps with hot starts for sure, it helps with getting off the choke sooner, it helps with rolling on the throttle such as from a take off. My stock settings make for terrible cold start manners and a lame dead spot when I take off from a stop. I don't believe that the slow jet circuit will help with HP gains which are measured at WOT. Performance gains happen at all throttle settings.

The Dynojet kit comes with the drill bit and screw needed to remove the EPA plug. Factory setting on that screw is like 3/4 of a turn and the proper setting is 2.5 or three turns out. BIG difference there. Funny how the proper jet was used but EPA made KAWI crank down the adjustment way way down. Almost like Kawi knew we would should be able to fix it and didn't want to make us buy new jets.

 

Highbeam, your mention of the capped aspect of the fuel/air screw is interesting. I'd speculate that when Keihin designed and manufactured this carb, I don't think they ever would have designed a fixed fuel/air circuit. I can't imagine that they would ever think that for a carb made to be used around the world could exist with a fixed fuel/air circuit. I'd bet that the little tunnel casting was a later addition to the casting that didn't require redesigning that portion of the carb. This allowed the placement of a "cap" to deter tuning at the point of sale. I'm thinking that perhaps this carb was designed before emissions became much if any of a legal issue. Again...just speculating.

 

When I first got this bike I did all the free mods posted on this and a couple other well known forums and the gains were at best small at best. I didn't hack into the stock exhaust as I knew it would be my first real mod. And that is when the real fun began. Not that you shouldn't try as working on your stuff it is both fun and a great learning experience.