how to change front sprockets?

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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 05:43 PM
  #21  
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I droped off the 250 and picked up the 351. They did the service and such. To replace the cylinder takes them 5 hours @ $85.00 an hour shop time. The carb and FMF were on it. Stupid; nah more like I didn't feel like doing it and if it went ****~house no one to yell at but myself. Bike runs great and all service is done.
 
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #22  
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So that's about $425 for the install. Makes the $200 to $250 that I'm quoted look like a pretty good deal.
 
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 2007 Green Machine
So, your saying a dealer does not change oil right or am I miss understanding what your saying. I've got an 06 dodge ram with a hemi and it sucks to change oil. When you pull off the oil filter which is way up there, oil goes everywhere. I'll let them get their floor dirty instead of mine for $5

I know 2 people who have driven away from having their oil changed and had big problems...

One guy watched his new oil filter bouncing down the road in his rear view mirror. The other (female) never noticed anything until the engine seized. Apparently, the tech never checked, and the old o-ring had stuck to the block. He just spun the new one on (creating a huge gap between the two.)

Nope; I even wouldn't trust a dealer to make me a peanut butter and jelly sandwich!
 
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by rgoers
I know 2 people who have driven away from having their oil changed and had big problems...

One guy watched his new oil filter bouncing down the road in his rear view mirror. The other (female) never noticed anything until the engine seized. Apparently, the tech never checked, and the old o-ring had stuck to the block. He just spun the new one on (creating a huge gap between the two.)

Nope; I even wouldn't trust a dealer to make me a peanut butter and jelly sandwich!
ya ive heard of bad things like that. or the things that you dont know that happened that may cause long term damage. i use to work at a quick lube place in prescott AZ and theres things that happen that u cant tell the customer.. say u start the motor without oil, possible long term damage.. i had a 05 dodge dakota v8 4.7L and the oil filter was in the same spot and it sucked but i just had rags ready lol my 91' chevy 1500 350 is cake to change the filter so much better! =)
 
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #25  
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price difference for labor is outrageous for motorcycles...i don't get it....for example, local kawasaki dealer said that just an oil change with oil and filter was $200, an independent shop asked me for $150 with the same oil and filter, and another moto shop asked me for $20 total for labor and cost of the oil and oil filter of my choice at their shop...

i only got to removing the cover over the sprocket...i didn't realize how large of a bolt was holding the sprocket....didn't have a socket wrench that big...do i want to buy more tools?...urgh...
 
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ahnh666
...do i want to buy more tools?...urgh...
$150 to $200 for an oil change? Holy #*@& batman!

Yes, buy tools. They will probably be less than the price of admission to the shop, and you'll always have them.

Or find a buddy with tools.
 
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #27  
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i thought there was something wrong with the prices, so i called other shops and dealers...$150 to $200 was the norm around san francisco/san jose, ca...the shop that is charging me $20 labor plus the cost of oil and filter seems to be mostly a dirt bike shop, but they seem to be very familiar with the klx250sf...as soon as i start asking questions about carbs and such, they start telling me what fits and what's better...i'm still not sure what they mean when they say that the mikuni is "pumper" and i should get this other 4 stroke carb...they made a quick phone call and found custom carb for the klx250sf that is $500 and they said $150 to install...

Originally Posted by IDRIDR
$150 to $200 for an oil change? Holy #*@& batman!

Yes, buy tools. They will probably be less than the price of admission to the shop, and you'll always have them.

Or find a buddy with tools.
 

Last edited by ahnh666; Sep 13, 2011 at 10:00 PM.
Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ahnh666
i thought there was something wrong with the prices, so i called other shops and dealers...$150 to $200 was the norm around san francisco/san jose, ca...the shop that is charging me $20 labor plus the cost of oil and filter seems to be mostly a dirt bike shop, but they seem to be very familiar with the klx250sf...as soon as i start asking questions about carbs and such, they start telling me what fits and what's better...i'm still not sure what they mean when they say that the mikuni is "pumper" and i should get this other 4 stroke carb...they made a quit phone call and found custom carb for the klx250sf that is $500 and they said $150 to install...
The "custom" pumper carb could be Bill Blue's modified TM34 which he lists for about $400. Or it could be the TM36-68 that many others on this forum have installed.
page 2
do some google or searching around here to see the differences between our stock carb and a pumper. Basically, the pumper squirts a little fuel in when you twist the throttle, and it'll feel more "connected" to the engine with faster response. The shop I referred to for install price on the big jug is a dirt bike shop, although I see them working on a street bike now and then.

Glad I don't have to pay SF prices...
 
Old Sep 14, 2011 | 12:45 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ahnh666
.

i only got to removing the cover over the sprocket...i didn't realize how large of a bolt was holding the sprocket....didn't have a socket wrench that big...do i want to buy more tools?...urgh...
I think it's the same size as the rear axle nut. There is a wrench in the factory tool kit for it. You'll need to slip a pipe on it for leverage. Eventually you'll need to remove the rear wheel anyway, so planning to pick up a proper breaker bar and socket probably isn't a bad idea.
 
Old Sep 14, 2011 | 01:46 AM
  #30  
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First I jack up the bike. Then I grab a 22 & 27 MM socket, 1/2 ratchet 1/2 drive impact [electric] 2 12 MM open wrenches, a 8 MM T~handle and a hammer and chisel. Take off sprocket cover, flatten the tag washer, spin off the sprocket nut[27]. Loosen axel nut. I don't have to remove cotter pin as the the 27 goes over it and it loosens enough to move the axel. Back off the adj nut and bolt and slid wheel forward and remove sprocket. Putting it back together I have to put the ratchet[22] to keep the axel from spinning.

I swap back and forth between a 12 and 14 and have put marks on swing arm so it goes pert fast.
 

Last edited by turnsleft; Sep 19, 2011 at 11:57 PM. Reason: Got my halves and . mixed up



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