Only $100 for a chain breaker?
But I just showed everyone how to do it with a $10 pair of vise-grips... I've never once in my life needed a chain breaker.

Even for link-less chains, I just grind one link out with a disc grinder and replace it with a master link.

 

I know this is an old thread, but man do I wish I had searched for it and read it before I tried to do my chain a weekend or two ago. There was much swearing and tossing of tools etc. This method looks like it will be so much easier than how I ended up doing it!!!

Thanks.

 

So I just changed my chain to a new one and had a bit of a problem. The new O-rings on the new master link compressed easily enough, however as soon as pressure is released from the link (to try put the clip on) the O-rings just uncompress and push the end plate past the clip grooves.

Any suggestions on how to overcome this? It's such a pain that I am considering going the rivet permanent link.

 

sounds like you don't have the plate squeezed onto the pins far enough. You sure you can see all of the groove on both pins?

 

Go to Harbor Freight and buy the smallest c-clamp they have in stock. Cut that little flat rotating part of the threaded rod off with a hacksaw as close to the flat as possible. Unscrew the threaded handle portion out of the C-handle and grind a fine tip on the end of the threaded handle part where you cut off the flat. Reassemble the threaded rod back into the "C" part of the clamp. Use that pointed end that you ground to push in the side plate of the master link inward to compress it far enough to slip the master link clip into the grooves.

You can carry that little 2.5" c-clamp in your on-bike tool kit if you want for a trailside emergency. The clamp is cheap and relatively light.

 

When I'm putting my master link back together I'm able to squeeze the side plate on and it will stay compressed allowing me to snap the keeper or clip on. It sounds like yours is doing the opposite. I usually have to squeeze the link together repeatedly to get it on far enough to see the grooves, but as i said once in far enough it stays there. TNC's solution sounds like a winner. You could also try to compress it with some smaller pliers and get one side started then work your way over to the other side.
Good luck,
Dan

 

Yeah, I had. My OEM chain the plate stayed in place, but with my new chain the holes must be that little bit bigger so the plate just slides.

That's a great suggestion TNC. Don't quite know if I have the facilities to modify such a clamp, but I can see what you are suggesting. Do you still think that is easier than doing a permanent link?

 

I hate staked link master links. Hey...they work, and I'd probably never have an issue with them just like I've never had an issue with a c-clip link. Frankly I think a lot of people who had trouble with the old fashioned c-clip link may have buggered up the clip during installation for the very reason we're talking about here. I've owned/raced many, many dirt bikes for 40 years and had tons of powerful street bikes. They all had c-clip master links. I never lost a clip, broke a master link, or broke a chain. On the other hand, I don't begrudge anyone who chooses to use staked master links whatsoever...they work.

On equipment for grinding down the point on that little c-clamp, I just used a bench grinder and held the threaded rod in my hand. This tool isn't a precision instrument, so it's really quite easy.

 

Nice seat cover
how bout a write up on that lol

 

I know this is an old thread but what does the "S" on the master link stand for?

Why should it be pointed out?

More risk pulling the clip off to check for the "S" than the "S" being on inside?

Where can you buy just the clip w/o the whole master link?