Help a Noob with Jetting! (please!)
#11
02-08-2015, 11:25 PM
Yup, that's me. You have two choices for jetting, the OEM 300 parts, or the Dynojet jetting kit. Probably more use the DJ kit. I went OEM on my 07, but DJ on this bike. I wasn't thrilled with the way it ran, so I've pulled it out and gone to the setup linked by KLX678. It seems that the DJ jets may not be big enough for my setup, based on testing by some of the members. You will find that the DJ jets are numbered/sized differently than OEM. The OEM parts are $40 from the dealer. Other things you may want to do are wide pegs (some on ebay for ~$20 that I like) and maybe a better headlight bulb. If you're going to be using it off road a lot, rim locks are a necessity. My build is here, if you're interested.
2009 KLX 250s dual sport| Sprockets | forum |
You'll see my solution to the rim locks, and why I did it that way.
2009 KLX 250s dual sport| Sprockets | forum |
You'll see my solution to the rim locks, and why I did it that way.
I read some of your stuff at the other forum... I like the rim screws, Bultaco did stuff like that.
By the way, the reason Kawasaki made the red KLX250 was so us riders with the 95 KLX 650C could have a matching bike for our big red 650s. That way our riding gear matched up.
Last edited by klx678; 02-08-2015 at 11:28 PM.
#12
02-09-2015, 12:37 AM
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lindsay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 46
The screws are sharpened on the end and biting into the sidewall of the tire. I've probably run about 8 hrs of pretty hard hare scramble loop at speed and no problems. If you want, I can make you up a set of lowering links like the SS ones in that build thread.
Some info on links here
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...le-info-31135/
Some info on links here
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...le-info-31135/
I like that screw in the sidewall idea. I may seriously consider that.
#13
02-09-2015, 12:58 AM
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lindsay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 46
I just took the seat off, and see that the snorkel has been pulled, but the jetting is stock. This means the bike has been running really lean (if I understand it properly). Hopefully this didn't cause any damage.
I think I will order up some klx300 carb parts soon.
I think I will order up some klx300 carb parts soon.
#14
02-09-2015, 01:12 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: SW Ontario, Canada
Posts: 869
I would avoid modifying that seat if I were you. Do the links first, then see if you want to do the seat. Once it's done, it's a pain to return to stock and get right again.
The links are no charge. I have lot's of material, and time at my disposal, especially when I'm working nights. Tell me how much you weigh and how much drop you want (probably what I used on mine) and you can have a set for the price of shipping.
The links are no charge. I have lot's of material, and time at my disposal, especially when I'm working nights. Tell me how much you weigh and how much drop you want (probably what I used on mine) and you can have a set for the price of shipping.
#15
02-09-2015, 11:02 PM
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lindsay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 46
Since the snorkel is not on the bike, which jets should I get to compensate? As I previously mentioned, I will keep the stock exhaust (but I will put a new tip on it without drilling the baffles). My location is just under 1000 ft.
I know people have mentioned the 125 and the 128 main, and the 40 pilot (I am going to go OEM as compared to DJ). Will these solve the lean issue on a bike with no snorkel and a slightly modified stock exhaust? My buddy has a load of jets in his garage, and he said I can search through to see what I can find.
Thanks again for all the help. Great forum!
I know people have mentioned the 125 and the 128 main, and the 40 pilot (I am going to go OEM as compared to DJ). Will these solve the lean issue on a bike with no snorkel and a slightly modified stock exhaust? My buddy has a load of jets in his garage, and he said I can search through to see what I can find.
Thanks again for all the help. Great forum!
#17
02-10-2015, 12:05 AM
I would avoid modifying that seat if I were you. Do the links first, then see if you want to do the seat. Once it's done, it's a pain to return to stock and get right again.
The links are no charge. I have lot's of material, and time at my disposal, especially when I'm working nights. Tell me how much you weigh and how much drop you want (probably what I used on mine) and you can have a set for the price of shipping.
The links are no charge. I have lot's of material, and time at my disposal, especially when I'm working nights. Tell me how much you weigh and how much drop you want (probably what I used on mine) and you can have a set for the price of shipping.
Do the links. It's hard to beat a set of links for the cost of shipping - nice guy that Zomby Woof!
If the links lower it enough, then go back to the original links then get the shock reworked with a travel limiting spacer. That keeps the geometry of the linkage at the factory setting, have the forks reworked with travel limiting spacers in it. You could have both reworked for optimum performance at the same time if you wanted. But the spacers can be done while just changing oil. The thing it does is keep stock geometry, no risk of bottoming out against fenders.
That is what flat trackers who run the 450 singles class do to cut suspension a bit. Supermoto riders did too. Just a thought,
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