Heavier front spring rates

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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 02:07 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by durielk
Ouch, sorry to hear that. I pretty much run the rebound on the rear near max, helps with the kickup. Also keep 2 sheets of weatherproof mechanical duct insulation over the rear rack, that thing can sting.
LOL!...yeah, I use this piece of blue dense foam on my rack for two reasons. It protects the bottom of the rack bag when I'm on the epic trip rides and need more gear, and I leave it on when riding without the rack bag for the reason you state. Cush on the tush.
 
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by gravel eddie
Is there a how to around here on how this is done?
All trial an error until you stumble upon your perfect setting for you.



I got the clickers on No.5
0.52kg/mm stiffer springs (Moto-pro)
5 pre-load washers in each fork (just less than 0.5inch thick) stainless steel from hardware shop.
5wt oil (stock OEM wt)
Not sure about SAG in MM's but enough!

Took a long time to get dialed in....Everyone is different, riding styles are different & terrain is different. Sorry not be very helpful.

good luck
 

Last edited by JoelThailand; Oct 1, 2012 at 07:35 AM.
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 2789greg
... I've played around with the damping adjustment but to tell the truth i cant really feel the differnece from one extreme setting to the other. It does not seem to really increase the fork stiffness so i've now ordered a set ot 0.44 kg/cm springs for the bike. ...

Greg
I read this all the time, and I *have* to believe there are some faulty units that made it out of the factory. I can definitely tell the difference between 3 and 5 clicks on mine, and the difference between the factory 12 clicks and 4 clicks (where I run mine) is GI-NORMOUS!

I wonder how many people replace their springs in an attempt to remedy a problem with the factory valving not working as it should...
 
Old Oct 2, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by rgoers
I read this all the time, and I *have* to believe there are some faulty units that made it out of the factory. I can definitely tell the difference between 3 and 5 clicks on mine, and the difference between the factory 12 clicks and 4 clicks (where I run mine) is GI-NORMOUS!

I wonder how many people replace their springs in an attempt to remedy a problem with the factory valving not working as it should...
Most people over 150 pounds find the stock springs too soft regardless of damping adjustments. The OEM springs are .38's if I recall, and that's ridiculously light.
 
Old Oct 2, 2012 | 04:25 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by TNC
Most people over 150 pounds find the stock springs too soft regardless of damping adjustments. The OEM springs are .38's if I recall, and that's ridiculously light.
0.38 kg/mm stock is what my notes say. Replaced with 0.46 for a 200lb rider with a desert tank.
 
Old Oct 2, 2012 | 05:46 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by gravel eddie
I hit the front brake hard and the front end dives bad. I am around 200 lbs.

Where do the spacers go, under the top cap?
Before I thought to use stainless steel washers I experimented with pvc tubing! I am 225lbs btw

I needed 1.5inch of pvc spacing with the standard springs to help with the diving but lost all my sag, which was not good but i knew it was only temporary until my stiffer springs arrived!



With the harder springs on my SF everything was great (no diving) except the klx high speed wobble was back, with my higher fork height (from spacers) lowered to it's stock OEM height (minus the 1.5inch spacers)!! The dreaded speed wobble was back!! Need to experiment with some washers to get rid of it!

i put 5 washers in each fork & with this little 0.5inch of pre-load lift, got rid of the speed wobble by 99%. My sag is spot on....an inch of pre-load spacers is the maximum you can go before loosing all your sag in my experience. I can hit 100mph (155kmh) on my Motard klx without getting scared from the wobble!
 

Last edited by JoelThailand; Oct 2, 2012 at 06:11 AM.
Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:46 AM
  #17  
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Hi all,

There seems to be heaps of confusion, heresay and plain old guessing when it comes to the standard front spring rates in a klx250s (mines a 2009 model). The figures vary depending on what website you look at or what suspension shop or Kawasaki dealer you talk to, and this has always annoyed me as without really being sure of what your starting point is it's hard to know where to go when trying to get the forks to work better. The most common figure i've seen given is 0.38kg/mm, but as i said that is contradicted on other websites and i've seen 0.39 and 0.40 given, and several suspension shops (including my local one) list them as as 0.43kg/mm. So i did the thing that should always have been done in the first place and i wrote to Kawasaki and, bugger me, they replied! The figure they gave was not in kg/mm but rather in Newtons/mm, and that figure was...... wait for it......... drum roll............. 3.9 Newtons/mm. I punched that into an online conversion calculator & it came out at 0.3976kg/mm, so just under 0.40kg/mm.

HOWEVER, before you feel too relieved that all the guessing is finally over, just today i took my standard springs in and had them tested on Teknik's digital spring tester, and they actually came out with a rate about 0.01kg/mm heaver than that, so just under 0.41kg/mm.

Well that's all close enough for me anyway: the standard fork springs are rated by Kawasaki in writing as just under 0.40kg/mm, and an actual test showed them to be just under 0.41kg/mm. I'll soon let you all know of how things have improved with the 0.44kg/mm springs i just put in.

Keep on bikin'!

Greg

PS. I think there's a difference in the actual fork fitted to the klx after 2007. I do not know if the spring is different though after the 07 model or if it's rated the same as the later model.
 
Old Oct 3, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 2789greg
Hi all,

There seems to be heaps of confusion, heresay and plain old guessing when it comes to the standard front spring rates in a klx250s (mines a 2009 model). The figures vary depending on what website you look at or what suspension shop or Kawasaki dealer you talk to, and this has always annoyed me as without really being sure of what your starting point is it's hard to know where to go when trying to get the forks to work better. The most common figure i've seen given is 0.38kg/mm, but as i said that is contradicted on other websites and i've seen 0.39 and 0.40 given, and several suspension shops (including my local one) list them as as 0.43kg/mm. So i did the thing that should always have been done in the first place and i wrote to Kawasaki and, bugger me, they replied! The figure they gave was not in kg/mm but rather in Newtons/mm, and that figure was...... wait for it......... drum roll............. 3.9 Newtons/mm. I punched that into an online conversion calculator & it came out at 0.3976kg/mm, so just under 0.40kg/mm.

HOWEVER, before you feel too relieved that all the guessing is finally over, just today i took my standard springs in and had them tested on Teknik's digital spring tester, and they actually came out with a rate about 0.01kg/mm heaver than that, so just under 0.41kg/mm.

Well that's all close enough for me anyway: the standard fork springs are rated by Kawasaki in writing as just under 0.40kg/mm, and an actual test showed them to be just under 0.41kg/mm. I'll soon let you all know of how things have improved with the 0.44kg/mm springs i just put in.

Keep on bikin'!

Greg

PS. I think there's a difference in the actual fork fitted to the klx after 2007. I do not know if the spring is different though after the 07 model or if it's rated the same as the later model.
Thanks for the info...good research. Still, the bottom line appears to be that the OEM springs are too soft for most riders. I guess it's not surprising that the reduced travel '09 fork would come with slightly heavier springs to work with the reduced travel.
 
Old Oct 7, 2012 | 09:54 PM
  #19  
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G’day,
Went for a first ride with my new 0.44 springs fitted and was so disappointed. It was a bit better but not nearly enough and the front end still bottoms way too easily, even over a small 50cm jump and even though I only weigh about 72kg (160 pounds). I asked a mate I was riding with to have a ride of my bike and the first thing he said was the front end was way too soft. The most common static sag (me on the bike with riding gear and a full tank of fuel etc) recommendation i can find is 75mm (+- 5mm), so the 57mm I measured would tell me that the springs are set a little too hard in fact, rather than too soft. So this is what really confuses me and leaves me totally stumped as to why they bottom so easily.
I called up the suspension mob I got the springs from and they told me the valves need modifying (or replacing with aftermarket ones) to make them better, as the klx compression damping rates as standard are too soft and I’ll never get the front end hard enough by just changing the springs. So this is what I will now do.
After I get the valves done I’ll go for another ride and let you know what happens.
Stay tuned!
Greg
 
Old Oct 8, 2012 | 12:18 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 2789greg
G’day,
Went for a first ride with my new 0.44 springs fitted and was so disappointed. It was a bit better but not nearly enough and the front end still bottoms way too easily, even over a small 50cm jump and even though I only weigh about 72kg (160 pounds). I asked a mate I was riding with to have a ride of my bike and the first thing he said was the front end was way too soft. The most common static sag (me on the bike with riding gear and a full tank of fuel etc) recommendation i can find is 75mm (+- 5mm), so the 57mm I measured would tell me that the springs are set a little too hard in fact, rather than too soft. So this is what really confuses me and leaves me totally stumped as to why they bottom so easily.
I called up the suspension mob I got the springs from and they told me the valves need modifying (or replacing with aftermarket ones) to make them better, as the klx compression damping rates as standard are too soft and I’ll never get the front end hard enough by just changing the springs. So this is what I will now do.
After I get the valves done I’ll go for another ride and let you know what happens.
Stay tuned!
Greg
Trying to nail down a static sag on a fork is seldom mentioned in detail like the rear shock because it's hard to qualify. Stiction and other factors make finding a truly exact fork sag more difficult. I've seen a method where you do a "high and low" zip tie deal to find a median point that's probably about the best. However, since you can really see zip tie and/or dust lines on your stanchions to know if you're getting full travel, not enough travel, etc, it's easier IMO to analyze a fork. Rear shock sag is a more quantifiable value because of rider location on the bike and the way the shock is compressed, and it's harder to see points on the shock shaft for travel measurements.

On the fork damping, I thought the damping on the '09 and later forks was basically the same as the '06/'07, but I don't know that for a fact. On the '06/'07 fork, they have a terrible compression spike. Too soft is not a problem on that fork. Revalving the KLX is an excellent way to really improve handling, performance, and just plain enjoyment. Be careful not to try to address a proper spring rate with damping.
 
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