yes there are a few threads on rejetting.
Redrilling is usually done to the slide air bleed hole to help it react faster to throttle input when using jet kit 2206 not 2152. Or the cover plug hiding the fuel mixture screw, epa regs limiting your ability to do adjustments that affect emissions output. You will need to remove that aluminum cover/plug when doing your jetting anyways. Many purchase a kouba mixture screw to ease adjustments as it can be done while sitting on the bike.

 

Drilling may also be done to the enricher/choke jet to improve cold starting for those cold-blooded KLX beasts. Use a 0.018" drill bit and remove just the smallest amount of material making the jet orifice slightly larger. This topic gets discussed every fall/winter as temperatures fall and bikes are difficult to start.

 

Use a finger drill, not a power drill, you don't want to drill into the body.

 

look for a "pin vise" and correct size drill bit

 

Why did I set the camshaft sprockets the way the manual says to do it?
Are you saying I should NOT have aligned the camshaft sprockets after replacing my shims? ...which requires removing the camshaft...


what do you mean by my cams "should have been pretty close"?

and 32 pins across means that there was 32 pins across the cam chain sprocket from the
intake mark and the exhaust mark on the cam sprocket ,
I have a picture of the cam sprockets after they were bolted down aligned and had tension from the chain
...ill post it tomorrow b/c I have no idea where youre getting at.



TBH your input doesn't seem very helpful ... I'll check the timing again but if my timing was off it would be a lot harder to start.
Like I said if you haven't read it, it starts every time when its warm, it runs good , it just takes a little more cranking when cold now than it used to.

 

OK, I guess I read 'tapping noise' & 'set timing' and got on the wrong track, on the internet 1000K miles away.
I think no matter where you set the cams, you will probably end up with 32 pins across.

 

I knew there was a proper name for the tool, just couldn't remember what it was. Duh! A pin vise.

 

If the marks lined up with the head you are where it should be.

 

I have a similar problem but more severe. I have to jump start mine and crank >60sec with choke and full throttle for it to start. Once warmed up, it starts and runs fine. It ran great for a hard 800mi trip on the KAT in kentucky. Got back and the bike sat for 3months. Got ready for a long weekend at land between the lakes recently and the bike wouldnt start on its own battery. Had to jump it off every day.

I'm guessing my valves need adjusting and plan to tear into it soon.

if your timing is correct, check your clearances again.

 

You drained the carb float bowl?