Just sayin' it's worth looking at. All it takes is for the fuel level to be a shade higher than that overflow and you have what I described. If it is a shade lower there will be no problem. So why not slightly lower the level? What is there to lose? It won't damage anything and might solve a problem.

I've seen the fuel level in some clear float bowls on the carbs of a drag bike and they were slightly below the mating surface of the bowl. It was a Fast by Gast 150 hp Kawasaki 750 triple. One interesting thing, when he launched the fuel would slosh back drastically. He saw that in a picture of the bike launching.

 

I'm convinced its the float at this point I'm starting to get more leakage after each ride.
So all I have to do is open the float bowl drain nipple with the hose looped to the top ...
and check if the fuel level lines up or is close to the line? and not over ?

also wondering...does it matter how low the drain tube is looped down ? meaning the the U shape being closer to the floor? does this have any affect on how high the gas will go .. or does the carb / float "know when to stop"


if its bad do I just get a new float needle and have someone adjust the float? adjusting the needle height seems difficult.
where can I get a little carb rebuild kit ? It would be good to get some new parts and I might need a needle anyways....+ the drain nipple screw is threaded to sh*t , its a circle at this point and the way I get it out is with vice grips.

 

If your float is too high all you need to do is bend the tab that pushes the needle closed. Just don't go nuts, it will only take a very small change to lower the float level

When you hook a piece of tubing to the drain the other end only needs to be higher than the float bowl so it won't run over. It doesn't need looped way down, any size of loop will work. It's simply that the fuel level will fill whatever loop you have to the same level as the float bowl is holding.

You shouldn't need a new needle, there may be rebuild kits, but I don't know if they will have the needle in them and I would only buy what I needed. Take the carb off, tweak the float tang a bit so that the float shuts it off sooner, then check the fuel level again. Remember it only takes a very very small change. Before you do the deal hold the carb upside down, measure from the gasket surface to the top (well, it's the top when the carb is upside down) then bend the tang so the measure is 1mm more. That will close the float sooner, less gas in the carb. The manual actually shows that measure and standard setting is 17mm. Going up, 18mm, closes the needle sooner, lowering fuel level. It also has the fuel level listed at .5mm ( about 1/64", yes 1/64") +/- 1mm above the gasket mating surface. I think your picture shows it may be above that. I'd drop it down so it is about 1mm below that mating surface.

This alteration should cost you nothing.

By the way, here is a PDF to the Kawasaki KLX250S manual. It suits the newer 2009 and up models, just what the doctor ordered. If you have a place to do it, print off a copy, both sides of page, 258 pages. ..

 

thanks doesn't sound too hard ..ill try it out..
hope this is the solution to all my carb problems... sick of trying to search for the problem.

 

so I actually realized already I have this manual...I can't seem to find the float adjustment part.