My thought was to install the Chinese 300, so that I can have my cylinder bored, not someone else's. I know it doesn't matter but I'd like to know my 351 is indeed mine. Dumb I know. Especially since it'll take some time to save the extra $$$ for the 351.
I wasn't really concerned with the piston quality, but the casting finish and the gaskets.
Since I just checked the financials, I think I might soon be the "Guinea Pig". I can always return it...

 

Let me know if I can help out on that extra tensioner thing. I either have one or can get one cut to work. I will do it on the first one done for anyone here for the shipping cost. If you do it first it would be $5.80. All I'd ask is the promise to post any comments on the delivery and the work along with the obvious - the performance vs stock!

 

What extra tensioner? Does it not use the same one? I was initially thrown by the water outlet, thinking that was the tensioner spot, but realized it was for the coolant connection.
What am I missing?
If it indeed needs a different tensioner, I'll be in touch.

 

I hope you're right. Some of the discussion on the ADVrider site commented about it. Maybe we were hallucinating. I'll have to look again.

Hopefully we were, that would be one less headache.

Just looked again, that is the hole for some sort of tensioner like the one on the 250 cylinder they show beside it. The opening goes into the cam drive tower, there is the front water port too. I guess my offer still stands if it is.

It will take two tensioners, one on the top and one to fit the spring loaded one that is in the cylinder. It does not use the same set up as the Kaw.

 

Duh, just went and really looked at my motor...right where the Kawi 250/300 plug style tensioner lives an oil pipe goes right around it...meaning the 2nd tensioner on the YF300 cylinder would require a new oil line as well. More than a straight bolt on.
To make a new hard line is beyond my knowledge and skill set...
It also looks like my manual tensioner might interfere because of the bolt length.
If my KLX was not my main means of transportation (I have a car, but try not to use it, she needs some love and fluids continuously, unless just sitting ) I'd be more willing to get stuck tearing it down and have to make a work around. Unfortunately, I don't have days to scratch my head, if I tear into my bike it's back together the same day. And as a pretty good shade tree mechanic, my problem solving skills when it comes to mechanical stuff is lacking because of my lack of training or a guiding hand. I'll see what my mechanic buddy thinks about the oil line problem.
Long story short, I didn't order it yet...hoping I'll get my end of summer bonus and it'll be big enough for some building supplies for the house renovation and a big bore kit with pumper and I'll just live with the cage upkeep/repair while the bike is down waiting for the cylinder to return. Or just live with a cylinder from another bike and have no down time.
Part of me still wants to see how far I can get the original piston and cylinder, but more of me wants the power!
I just keep coming back to a line I saw on ADV - In all my years of motorcycling I've found there is nothing I can't fix with a credit card. I take that to mean go for the BB kit for ease and less hassle, despite the cost I'm sure I'd be more happy in the end.

 

This is not Japanese. It is Chinese crap made in China. Caveat Emptor

 

I always wondered where Chinese crap was made.

 

Not in my experience, I've had 3 or so, and 1 was OK running a genset, 2nd was iffy on a pressurewasher and the 3rd ran a pressurewasher for 25 hrs, hydo-locked and then was seized the next spring. Pulled the motor got a new one and then the pump was shot!
When the spark plug was removed 12 months after buying it the threads came out as well.

I don't have time for that crap so a Honda runs my new p/w and it starts and runs PERFECTLY. The 'landfill' has the Loncin.

I find that with the Chinese reverse engineering they almosrt always miss SOMETHING vital and I don't get the life from it that I should.

 

i heard it was made in Romania and imported.

 

Ha, nice. I probably should have explained my self better. I think KLX678 summed it up good for me. I was getting at the whole charging enough "core charge" to cover your self if you don't receive a core back. I was implying if he only charges 175 then he must know a way to get a bore/barrel for about 175 or less, you'd assume.

I know I'd consider keeping all my 250 crap for 175 bucks.


On a side note I think when it comes down to it I'm still going with a BB 331 kit.

SO....I'm kind of into this whole "minimalist touring" thing. I think it would be fun going out on a few epic runs before I buy my second bike, most likely a used Dakar or Sertao...maybe even F800GS but that's talk for another time. My epic run would consist of as much dirt as possible, twisty roads and as little highway as needed. The crappy part is leaving San Jose. That means a two hour freeway ride to get any where with decent back roads or dirt. I punish the bike and ride it 70mph for miles on end but the slightest head wind with an incline and holding 60mph could suck. Not to mention 40 or 50 pounds extra gear for an over nighter or two. I guess what I'm tying into this thread is power and durability wise, a 300, 331 or 351 with maybe a 15t sprocket...yay or nay? What's your guys take on it? Will it handle 70mph like a champ?