Gonna buy the carb stuff and 300cc
ORIGINAL: ntloser
Hi,
I am just about to order the 300 cc kit and the carb stuff. I was unclear on what I need for the carb. Do I need just the dyno jet kit?
Thanks
Hi,
I am just about to order the 300 cc kit and the carb stuff. I was unclear on what I need for the carb. Do I need just the dyno jet kit?
Thanks
Hmmm, well ya but what about the exhaust and the free mods Before doing the 300cc kit. Maybe do it one step at a time dude. Also what might be better for you would be new springs for the forks and shock. At 230 I know for me to do any serious offroad stuff I will have to do them in the future too. That is unless Yamaha comes out with a street version of the wr450f. one can always hope.
LV
I am going to do the free stuff too but figured Id do it all at once
The free stuff i was going to do is the air needle.. under that plug in the carb which required removing the carb so I figured I could put the jets in while its off. I decided to 86 the snorkel mod and run with out the airbox cover.. I will also be ordering the muzzy or big gun.
The free stuff i was going to do is the air needle.. under that plug in the carb which required removing the carb so I figured I could put the jets in while its off. I decided to 86 the snorkel mod and run with out the airbox cover.. I will also be ordering the muzzy or big gun.
First thing I'd do if I were you ntloser is the suspension. Take it to someplace that knows what they are doing - get those springs replaced and a heavier weight fork oil in there and I bet it will feel like a totally different bike not a worn out mattress.
Then I would work on the performance mods. While the performance mods will be an improvement, my opinion is that you will never be completely happy until you get the suspension worked out and that is the basis for the feel of the bike. But if you don't do that, you will be short-changing the carb, exhaust, and 300cc upgrades because the bike is still going to feel squishy to you even after those. Suspension!
Just my opinion, though - it's your money and effort so you are the boss, of course. I just feel the suspension is the foundation of the bike and without that being properly set up, you won't be able to get the most out of the other mods.
Then I would work on the performance mods. While the performance mods will be an improvement, my opinion is that you will never be completely happy until you get the suspension worked out and that is the basis for the feel of the bike. But if you don't do that, you will be short-changing the carb, exhaust, and 300cc upgrades because the bike is still going to feel squishy to you even after those. Suspension!
Just my opinion, though - it's your money and effort so you are the boss, of course. I just feel the suspension is the foundation of the bike and without that being properly set up, you won't be able to get the most out of the other mods.
Hey NT,
I've been riding the KLX in the sugar sand by my warehouse for a couple months now, I did the all the standard mods except the new new exhaust, just drilled the baffle and I've been having a blast mostly. I took a handlebar to the chest while recently trying to jump like I did when I was 16, but besides that all thumbs up! PS I've been wearing a Thor chest plate ever since.
But to the point at hand, I only weigh about 170lbs and I got the the rear spring/shock cranked almost all the way down and I think I only got about 4 or 5 clicks left to max out the front. IMHO you need to address suspension first. Power don't help if ya can't control it.
I've been riding the KLX in the sugar sand by my warehouse for a couple months now, I did the all the standard mods except the new new exhaust, just drilled the baffle and I've been having a blast mostly. I took a handlebar to the chest while recently trying to jump like I did when I was 16, but besides that all thumbs up! PS I've been wearing a Thor chest plate ever since.
But to the point at hand, I only weigh about 170lbs and I got the the rear spring/shock cranked almost all the way down and I think I only got about 4 or 5 clicks left to max out the front. IMHO you need to address suspension first. Power don't help if ya can't control it.
Do any of you know the part numbers for the heavier springs?
I have been reading and think I got it right but was hoping to get confirmation.
New spring for the rear and new oil in the front shocks
Take off box top
replace filter with K&N or Unifilter
128 main
40 pilot
loosen the air screw that is under the cap 2 turns out
Get a new N1TC needle or shim the current one.( Is that the big long needle that goes with the spring?)
Big Gun or Muzzy.
I have been reading and think I got it right but was hoping to get confirmation.
New spring for the rear and new oil in the front shocks
Take off box top
replace filter with K&N or Unifilter
128 main
40 pilot
loosen the air screw that is under the cap 2 turns out
Get a new N1TC needle or shim the current one.( Is that the big long needle that goes with the spring?)
Big Gun or Muzzy.
Sorry I don't have a part number for the rear spring - I think a16tony or scat had their suspension worked on, perhaps one of them can share some additional ideas. Also, I think Marty has a replacement rear spring on his bike so I'm guessing he can provide some good advice too.
ORIGINAL: ntloser
New spring for the rear and new oil in the front shocks
New spring for the rear and new oil in the front shocks
Take off box top
replace filter with K&N or Unifilter
128 main
40 pilot
128 main
40 pilot
loosen the air screw that is under the cap 2 turns out
Get a new N1TC needle or shim the current one.( Is that the big long needle that goes with the spring?)
Big Gun or Muzzy.
Big Gun or Muzzy.
Thanks.
For some reason, I have to have everything spelled out for me with the bike. I find I am extremely nervous when it comes to "working" on it.. Especially because it is not paid for.
Does the dyno jet kit come with all the needles except for the N1TC?
For some reason, I have to have everything spelled out for me with the bike. I find I am extremely nervous when it comes to "working" on it.. Especially because it is not paid for.

Does the dyno jet kit come with all the needles except for the N1TC?
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Posts: n/a
ntloser, do NOT listen to the above comment regarding the Uni-filter not making a "profound difference". I just installed one in my bike which has all the mods on your wish list plus a biggun EvoX full system, the best for the KLX imo. Let me tell you that the Uni-filter not only makes a profound difference, but it is a must if you plan on opening up your airbox and doing carb/exhaust work. I waited until 2 days ago to put one in and my bike gained a substantial amount of power down low- a HUGE amount. The person who made that comment has lots of unnecessary accessories (to me anyways) on his bike which probably weights it down. Plus he has a Muzzy which may or may not make as much power as a full-on BigGun system. I like to keep it simple and my bike will do 3rd gear wheelies. I weigh in at 150 lbs. The air filter may be the single most important mod you can do- after all, all that effort and thinking that you're doing to get more air into the airbox has to travel through one thing- the air filter. Trust me, you don't want to wait on this like nobrakes has encouraged you to do. Don't get the dynojet kit. Order the N1TC needle with circlip and washer. This way you have factory oem parts and can adjust it in a jiffy if you need to. Also, you probably won't need the 40 pilot jet as I left the 35 in and it is spot on. The 128 is what I have and it will rev to redline without hesitation. The biggun is a must if you want serious horsepower gains. Drill the stock pipe all you want, but you need to get rid of the weight and choking hold the stock exhaust system has on your engine.


