Finally got around to trading out the stock valving for gold valves. I'm putting it all together and when it gets down to how to hold it all together I have a question.

Did others use the "special nut" or the cupped washer/stock nut when holding it all together? Trouble is - the "special nut" doesn't fit the shaft as well as I think it should. It goes on really tight. So tight that I thinbk it may be pushing the 25 inch pound torque measurement even though it's nowhere near being seated.

On the other hand the cupped washer fits nicely over the shaft and can be held in place by the stock nut with only one of the provided spacers on the bottom.

Lil help from those who have come before? I'm only asking because I seem to remember reading that the "cupped washer" came with the package but wasn't actually used in out forks. My memory has been wrong in the past and , as such, remains highly suspect.

 

Oh man, it's been too long since I did my GV's to be perfectly clear on it now. I think the memory you have about not using the cupped washer may have been by the guys talking about the Moto Pro version. I saw that same conversation fairly recently. I think the GV's use the cupped washer.

On the GV's, let me ask you if you have that Race Tech diagram that shows the two versions of valve body for this kit? If you do, doesn't our design use the "step" version in figure 1? Did you get the instructional video with your GV's? I thought it may have explained this. Still, do we have the "step" version or the straight version?

 

Thanks TNC. I do have the directions and the picture. I would have guessed we are supposed to use the nut because the directions go out of their way to say that Showa forks used the "cupped washed" and the shoulder has to be seated just right on the step of the shaft. Doesn't say anything about Kayabas. The special nut fits so tight I'm a little worried about wrecking the threads on the shaft of the base valve. I know the cupped washer works well, and seats nicely on top of the GV and it's also easier to make sure the cupped washer doesn't crimp the checkvalve on the way down.

In the end I'm sure it doesn't matter as long as it fits and the checkvalve works. Unless I hear other GV users saying "don't do that" I think I'll go the washer route for the timebeing. I can always just pull the basevalve and switch it around later if I need to.

 

OK...I'm assuming then that our Kayaba is the "straight" valve body shaft since Showa uses the "step"? I just can't recall now. Regardless, in the two diagram pics, you see the optional shims under the base plate that are labeled "if required for spacing". You achieve that upper positioning of the cupped washer and/or nut and the check valve plate and check valve spring by stacking any necessary shims under the base plate at the bottom. If I recall, the size of any of these spacing shims isn't important, though I think it's safer to remain no bigger in diameter than the base plate.

 

I used a base valve from my old KLX331 from a few yewars ago and turns out the special nut does fit OK it's just hard getting it over the end that's been peened out ward. Once past that point the nut turns quite easily. Plus, since it turns easily - it'll be just as easy to "seat" the checkvalve.

Also, I don't see a baseplate from the original setup that even fits the shaft. I just used 2 of the spacers in the RT kit to achieve the correct height.

Think I'll use the nuts.