OK!! So I've been in the garage the past couple weeks doing my mods. Airbox, muff, jets... 46t and chain. I have a 13t that I want to put on BUT CAN'T GET THE DAMN OLD ONE OFF!!! I had the bike in gear, sitting on it, w/ my dad using a 3ft pipe and it did nothing. It didn't budge. Any clues. We are stuck using hand tools. so don't mention some crazy cool impact. Thanks for the words of wisdom. Is it reverse by chance??? (I wouldn't think so but...)

 

Not reverse thread, but it is a bitch to get off. My recommendations are:

1. make sure that washer is totally flat
2. swift jerks seem more effective than constant pressure

 

That is an almost universal problem on these bikes. Impact wrench does the trick, but if you can't find anybody with one, you could try it this way. Like Gobius said make sure your washer is really flat. Get your 3' wrench set up on the nut and put some good pressure on it. While holding the pressure have someone tap the nut, or the wrench close to the nut. Sometimes the combination of the pressure from the wrench and the vibrations from the tapping will get the nut loose. I have put anti-sieze compound on mine when I reassembled it, to try and prevent the same condition the next time i change sprockets.
Good luck
Dan

PS search on here it's been discussed quite a bit. lots of good info if you look.

 

I woldn't leave the bike in gear either. I don't think you want to put all that stress on your transmission. Use the rear brake or find another way to hold the rear wheel still.

 

+1 Rear brake

 

right on. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll get it this weekend. I just wanted to make sure I was on the right path.

 

A wise choice to use antiseize for this application. Some think antiseize will allow parts to literally fly off the bike when used. Not true. Antiseize allows better tightening torque readings, even acts as a damper for vibration, and that's in addition to its anti-galling properties. Antiseize is your friend.

 

Just be carefull with antiseize inside the engine. It is esentialy made up of bits of soft metals like coper and lead suspended in oil solution. Inside the engine it will pormote wear. Outside its good stuff.

 

i used a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe. i wouldnt use a rachet (broke a couple with a pipe) or a 3/8ths breaker (broke one the pipe also). like it was stated before, the jerks help and dont do it in gear.

 

You can get a corded impact at harbor freight for around $20