Kawasaki Forums - Front fork springs

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- - Front fork springs (https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/front-fork-springs-42436/)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'klx-er (Post 517362)

Aren't group buys usually for a number of the same item?

What are the chances that everyone will want/need the same rate springs? ;)

Yah maybe, I'll send out some emails and see. I'm thinking .44-.46 forks and 6 shock will be most common for 180-200lb riders.

Quote:

I'm thinking .44-.46 forks and 6 shock will be most common for 180-200lb riders.

Yup. That's about what I'm needing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4vman1 (Post 517373)

Well that's good to hear. Who's springs did you go with? The spring calculator between Race Tech and Moto Pro is way different, so did you go with one of their calculations, or did you go even stiffer? There's a big part of me that wants to go a bit stiffer than recommended to make up for the lack of travel, but that may be a mistake. I think I'm going the same route you did.

I had no luck with Race Tech or Moto Pro. RT emailed back that they had no info for my model (2007 H7) and MP took two weeks to respond. By then, I had already ordered springs.

I talked with another suspension tuner here in WA state that was very helpful. He gets all his springs from 'Cannon Racecraft' so that's who I ordered from. Cannon is the same manufacturer MP gets their springs from as well. I posted a link to them earlier in this thread.

I have a 2007, and went with .48 fork, and 6.4 shock. I weigh 270. On the spring selection charts, if you change your riding application from Enduro to MX, but keep the rider weight the same, the numbers get higher. So I don't think a bit higher rate will hurt anything if you are going to be more demanding of your bike over time. One step in spring rate is not that big of a change.

Alright. I appreciate the feedback. Now I have some springs to order.

Here is an interesting excerpt from my files:

“Currently has: Big Gun full system, airbox mods, dynojet kit, pro taper bars/grips, Moose brush guards, 13/42 sprockets. “I think you'll get more bang for your buck if you tackle the suspension next. You've done the basics to get some decent power, but the suspension is the next weakest link IMO.

I did basically what you did at first with a full Muzzy exhaust, all airbox mods, Dynojet kit, and 14/47 gearing.

Next I did a full Race Tech Gold Valve damping kit to the front and rear suspension along with RT front .44 springs and an Eibach 6.0 rear spring. This absolutely transformed this bike. I could ride in some really tough off road conditions with some awesome suspension control. It was a different bike.

Later I did a 300 cylinder/piston swap, and it was a good and worthwhile mod.

However, the suspension was the real eye opener. If you're just riding some dirt roads and pavement, the 351 kit would be great, and the suspension could be left as it...but...why have a KLX at that point. I've spent a few bucks on my used '06 KLX250. I did all the work myself, so I didn't break the bank.

The bike is a totally different bike now...I mean totally different. I just did a 2+ week trip to Moab and rode many of the gnarlier trails that really challenged me on my heavily modded KLR650's of the past. It performed almost as well as some of the competition bikes I'd ridden. It's been nice to have a street legal bike that gets great mileage, has decently long service intervals, but performs at a surprisingly high level of performance.”

Long term KLX250S review - Page 266 - ADVrider

This is one of the key posts that convinced me to get a KLX.

So I weigh 180 in street clothes and am technical but not fast. For my 2009 KLX250S the RT calculator gave me a

Recommended Fork Spring Rate: 0.481 kg/mm
vs.
Stock Fork Spring Rate: 0.43 kg/mm(stock)

That doesn't seem like a big difference: 11%

So I have not been in a hurry to spend the money vs. buying Tubliss and ITC Trials tires which are like night and day compared to the stock dual-sport tires.

But if an 11% difference in spring rate makes a big difference, it would be worthwhile. Same with Gold Valves. Thought I left those behind when I bought a bike with cartridge suspension, but I guess not ;)

The RT site has a pretty credible explanation of why off-the-shelf suspension seldom fits an individual rider.

I'm surprised Moto-Pro didn't get back to you for 2 weeks. I just sent them my forks for rebuilding today (after talking to them on the phone for a good 20 minutes).

Though I did go with moto-pro over racetek because they knew my model existed (H7).

customer service

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdventuresinRealLife (Post 517557)

Glad you got the service you wanted. That's how it's supposed to work.

I called and emailed a couple times too. When called I just got a female voice recording that they were away or helping some one else, etc. No instructions to leave a msg. I emailed again asking if they were still in biz and got a reply. Email price was $20 more than the website for springs. I was going to do the work anyway, so had already ordered the springs direct from Cannon.

most modified KLX

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdventuresinRealLife (Post 517557)

I watched your vid on KS install. I think it was yours. So this might be of interest to you. A good future project might be to build an extended (or 'new' custom) left footpeg to facilitate easier shifting. Note how far out the shifter end is positioned in relation to the end of the peg. (another inch or so and they'd almost be even!) The design forces you to pivot your foot about 45 degrees outward to get around and over/under it. If you take a measurement from bike centerline, the right peg sticks out about an inch+ further than the left to allow for the optional KS lever installatiion. They obviously put a lot of thought into that. ; )

IMO, I think they should have made the left peg stick out as far as the right. If I keep my KLX, I'll be extending/modifying mine for sure.

Apologies to the board for the off topic post.

@Dezyrider

It was my video, thanks for watching.

Do you have the '09+ model? Because it looks like the 06-07 models don't have this issue. I know that the right foot peg mount sticks out about half an inch farther on the early model compared to the late, and it would seem the left follows.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...620%5B1%5D.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...926%5B1%5D.jpg

I took a picture of my '07 left peg (top) and my bros '10 left peg (bottom). It looks as though the peg is a bit more tucked in on the late model. But I could be wrong, probably should actually measure.

I Generally place my foot so the inside heel is in line with the closest part of the peg. Not in contact with the frame. Never seemed to have any issue with curving out the foot.

I think the best solution would be to simply use some weld on footpeg extensions. $30 fix, but you do need access to a welder. Works Connection Weld-On Footpeg Extension - 2WheelPros.com

On topic, I'm now having trouble getting a hold of Moto-pro. I'm pretty sure that it's just one guy working out of his house (John Minnich if anyone's wondering). I called him friday, and I guess he must've not been busy because he was happy to talk.

He told me to send in my forks/shock and call him when I do so he can 'reserve parts'. I sent both on Saturday, and have called 3-4 times in the past two days, without a response.

His website is in need of an update, it doesn't list models newer than 2010...