Front brake trouble

Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:32 AM
  #1  
jwatts's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
From: pa.
Default Front brake trouble

I have been having problems w/ my 2000 kdx 220 (i know this forum is for klx250s but what the hell) The problem is you can squeeze the heck out of the lever then crack the bleeder and just fluid comes out, but i can't get any braking power. I don't seem to be getting any air out the bottom bleeder and The lever goes right to the grip. Has anyone ever had trouble like this? shall i get a master cylinder rebuild kit?
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 03:02 AM
  #2  
ddt1972's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 477
From: Japan
Default

I would first try a reverse bleed, use a large syringe and rubber hose and force the fluid up the line and into the master cylinder. Just suck the fluid out of the master cylinder first, and it won't overflow as you push it up the line. Sometimes, the master cylinder can get an air bubble that won't come out any other way. if that don't work, rebuild time.
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #3  
jwatts's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
From: pa.
Default

Thanks ddt, i'll try that. i also just ordered a moose rebuild kit so i'll use that as a last resort. Do you think the line could be bad? I don't see any fluid dripping out of it and my fittings are tight. thanks again
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #4  
ddt1972's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 477
From: Japan
Default

The line will give a little, but not enough to cause your symptoms, unless you can see a bulge when you pull the lever.
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:55 AM
  #5  
neilaction's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,985
From:
Default

Originally Posted by ddt1972
The line will give a little, but not enough to cause your symptoms, unless you can see a bulge when you pull the lever.
My though was a damaged or worn line.

Might be time for a braided one.
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 03:34 PM
  #6  
Brewster's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 667
From: Hayward, CA
1st Gear Member
Default

The master cylinder only moves a small amount of fluid when you pull the lever in so it's very hard to do the normal bleed routine. The reverse bleed, already described works better. You may also want to remove the master cylinder from the handle bar and have someone hold it up so that there is no place in the brake line for air bubbles to get trapped,,,,,,,,,,,,air wants to go up naturally.

Ride on
Brewster
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 03:40 PM
  #7  
Ranger Ron's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 262
From: Sonoran Desert, Arizona
Default

Make sure you have free play at the brake lever.

If not, the master cylinder piston may not be uncovering the "fill" hole in the reservoir when it is retracted. If that's happening, you won't get a full stroke at the wheel cylinder.

Ron
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 03:43 PM
  #8  
deej's Avatar
Your Humble Moderator/Admin
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 21,060
From: Washington
1st Gear Member
Default

Too bad you weren't closer, I would bring my brake bleeder over and it would be done in 3 minutes. Oh and this forum is for anyone with any question. Even if you don't even have a Kawi...*cough* Nobrakes...LOL
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #9  
jwatts's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
From: pa.
Default

Thanks alot gentelman, i'll try everything that was mentioned. Deej, what kind of brake bleeder do you have. i might get one. Thanks again
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #10  
GaryC's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Default

I had the same problem when i re routed a brake line a few years ago.
Loosen the banjo bolt at the master and start your bleed there first. Same process, but a little higher in the line.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:01 AM.