Fork Oil
Hi Guys
Tried to find an answer but I thought I would ask everyone.
I have a 2009 KLX 250 s and have an Oild leak on the left Fork. So a couple of questions
1) The standard fork oil weight is 10, is that correct
2) what happens if I a) put in 15 or b) put in 5
Cheers
Patto
Tried to find an answer but I thought I would ask everyone.
I have a 2009 KLX 250 s and have an Oild leak on the left Fork. So a couple of questions
1) The standard fork oil weight is 10, is that correct
2) what happens if I a) put in 15 or b) put in 5
Cheers
Patto
no clue, but as a refrence i had my fork seals go out at 400 miles ( had them done under warrenty). had them go out again 7000 later, sence then no problems 9000 miles later.
Last edited by punkenduro09; Jun 6, 2010 at 08:53 AM.
Standard weight is 5wt oil for the KLX. A heavier weight oil slows down the spring rate, thus gives it a stiffer ride. Same effect as changing the damper setting. I currently switched to a 10wt to help lessen the nose dive effect while braking, which it did by a slight degree.
Here is the link to the oil seal replacement that I did a while ago back.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ght=fork+seals
Here is the link to the oil seal replacement that I did a while ago back.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ght=fork+seals
Last edited by LearjetMinako; Jun 6, 2010 at 04:14 PM.
All KLX's are notorious for having compression spiking in both the fork and rear shock. Oil doesn't flow fast enough at a certain point of operation...usually under successive big hits or often during one big hit. The fork just quits working basically. Using heavier oil for something a spring change would address better on the KLX will often result in an even harsher ride in most instances.
John at Moto Pro and the folks at Race Tech will confirm that the main piston in the fork and shock on the KLX is the main culprit for not flowing enough oil and not being able to "blowoff" at some of those critical times. The shim stack selection isn't the greatest, but it's not horrible. The main piston is the real culprit. Going to heavier oil just makes it worse. If you're not going to change the internal damping, go to more appropriate springs for your weight and riding style and stay with 5wt oil. I changed both the front and rear damper internals with Race Tech Gold Valves and shims, and the difference was amazing. If you don't do the work yourself, John at Moto Pro knows the KLX quite well, and he's who I would use for that service.
John at Moto Pro and the folks at Race Tech will confirm that the main piston in the fork and shock on the KLX is the main culprit for not flowing enough oil and not being able to "blowoff" at some of those critical times. The shim stack selection isn't the greatest, but it's not horrible. The main piston is the real culprit. Going to heavier oil just makes it worse. If you're not going to change the internal damping, go to more appropriate springs for your weight and riding style and stay with 5wt oil. I changed both the front and rear damper internals with Race Tech Gold Valves and shims, and the difference was amazing. If you don't do the work yourself, John at Moto Pro knows the KLX quite well, and he's who I would use for that service.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




