I've used Slime and Stan's both over the seven years I've used the Tubliss system. The Slime seemed to work about as well, but Slime cleanup was very messy compared to Stan's when replacing tires. All sealants come with a little mess, but I found the Slime and other "goo" sealants to be really messy. If you've never used Stan's sealant, your first impression is "how can that stuff seal a tubeless puncture?" Don't worry...it works.

On the Bib Mousse...they do work without question. Their main benefit is that they "generally" cannot be flatted. Their drawback is cost, installation difficulty, and operational life. The Tubliss system costs almost as much per tire as BM, but it will go through several tires if you treat it right during tire replacement. I can get about 5 front tires and 4 rear tires out of the hard liner in a Tubliss setup. It's smart to replace the inflatable, inexpensive inner tube every other tire at about $10.

I think installing the Tubliss system is where people have problems. Once you really inspect the design and "get" how it works, using the same cautions one uses for tube installation will be all you need. Strictly following the designer's instructions is a must. If you're not mechanically inclined at least to a reasonable degree, I'd avoid doing the install yourself...and that goes for BM too.

I have a few really talented, aggressive riding friends who have not had success running Tubliss on the rear. Here's what I've found as their problem. They were determined to run the Tubliss setup at very low pressures. They still had that low pressure tube mentality. A tube adds another layer of tire stiffness even if you think that a soft tube wouldn't do that. Tubeless tires can run higher pressure while still providing a great deal of beneficial tire flex for traction and handling. Mountainbikers learned this a long time ago when we went to tubeless tires. A tubeless tire does not need the super low pressure a tube needs to get good off road traction. That's why I've run my tires in the 16-18 psi range for years. This allows me to do some longer pavement runs and still have great off road traction.

 

Wow, that's interesting. I've been running around 10 and have been happy with it. I am going to try and bump up the pressure a bit.

 

tax, it's not that it won't run those low pressures, but it does challenge the grip of the high pressure red inner liner. A tire without a tube has more beneficial flex at the same pressure than a tubed tire setup. This debate gets more heated than a "what's the best oil?" argument. Mavic tried setting the record straight back when they first introduced the tubeless specific mountainbike rim by recommending a higher pressure and explaining why. Still, old habits and tradition die hard.

Please understand that I'm not recommending high pressures for optimum performance, just that the Tubliss system allows higher pressure than comparable tube pressures to achieve the same performance. It can vary a bit from tire to tire and from given pressure levels. In the pressure ranges one might run for the KLX with knobbies, it's generally in the 5-6 psi range from my experience. Remember too that many/most MX tracks allow you to run those really low pressures, but off road usually has more rocky, puncture-prone terrain to deal with. The absolute best traction ain't worth beans when it comes with flats.

 

Where I ride (Borneo) there are not many sharp rocks but there are rocks, often hidden in the mud, so easy to hit them at high speed, causing pinch flats.

Because of the sheer number of punctures I've had I now shy away from the whole "Hey, let's let out tires down, have more grip, and get another puncture!" thing.

As such I now stubbornly ignore all such advice and run around 22 psi front and back. That works for preventing punctures, mostly. And then the other day I figured I'd be a smart-*** and reduce the pressure a bit.... The very next ride, yet another flat back tire.

Let me figure out/count.... Mmm.... over the last 24 months, best as I recall, I've had 7 flats.

Only 1 of them was on the front, as an actual puncture, though I did once turn up for a ride with the guys without noticing my front was flat until we were about to set off. After repumping it was ok all day.

It does seem my main issue is hard acceleration ripping the inner tube.

I still haven't removed my rear wheel/tire. That little black grommet thing, that is a rim lock, right? Or not? When I had a rimlock fitted on my 150 it wasn't a black grommet thing but a big bolt sticking out?

I'm thinking if I fit the Tubliss system I can use that hole for the Tubliss HP tube, as the Tubliess replaces the need for a rimlock, right?

Must admit that as a 50 year old it's frustrating to still be facing the issue I faced with my old Rayleigh Wisp as a 12 year old - punctures!

I mean seriously, we're still doing the puncture thing? FFS...

 

That little black grommet thing is just that. A rubber plug for the hole in the rim.
It is not a rim lock!!

Doug

 

Really?

That's almost a relief... so with a proper rimlock the next tire might last more than 1200 km?

0_o

 

I put a true rim lock (using that blocked grommet hole) on the rear a year ago after getting a flat on the trail. Haven't had a flat yet. I believe it was one made by Motion Pro. I didn't even balance it afterwards and it still runs true.

 

Extended offroad trip with luggage ? should be aired up enough a good HD tube should be fine. No matter what system you use carry a tube and tools. Bibs can fail with heat or decide just to come apart, pita fix on a trip. Trail riding near home? that's when you can leverage low psi and thick tubes , tubliss, bibs etc. my 02

 

So... the discussion continues....
When one speaks of tubeless, is this a tubeless tire, or just a tire with a bib or Tubliss system?
I think for the KLX one would have to seal the rim spoke holes with some tap or something.

 

Tubliss is a system that can be run in either a factory tubeless tire like a Pirelli MT43 or standard non-tubeless designed tire like the Kenda Trakmaster II. The kit does come with a thick, tough tape to apply in the spoke valley, but it's not for sealing...it's for protecting the small, high pressure inner tube that resides inside of the harder plastic liner that grips the tire to the rim...along with the additional aid of a rim lock that integrated into the low pressure Schrader valve for filling the tire. It's a unique system, but it works.