EBC sells some clutch springs for $20 that will work as an alternative to Barnett. Just put them on my bike.

From my experience on my brother's 351 with a TM34, you have to be really aggressive to get the stock clutch to slip. However, here at 6,000 feet, the engine is about 15% less powerful. So I can't really say how easily the thing will slip for most users.

I'd say that if you plan on using synthetic oil, which is slightly slicker, you should change out the springs. But it is much harder to pull (soon a video on lever pull testing) the OEM springs require 8.2lbs of force to pull the lever to the clutch point, where the aftermarket EBC ones require 10.4lbs.

Your wrist will thank you on long rides where you need to finger the clutch often, or when you're stuck in traffic, if you stick with OEM. Personally, I'm installing a Magura to compensate for the increased force needed.

 

I'll agree there, but I don't feel like the webcam 101 grind is that grind

 

i guess i dont understand the webcams totally...do you send them yours? the $438 price turned me away but is that for brand new ones?

 

Webcam hardwelds new material on oe cam cores and then grinds new lobe profiles on those cores. The cams I received didn't even require changing any of the shims to set valve lash so their q/c is pretty good.

 

I put one of these on (stock clutch):
Moose Racing Easy-Pull Clutch System - Motorcycle Superstore

It has 3 levels of pull, I put mine on the lightest - made a big difference on a long ride in tight woods trails where you're on/off the clutch a lot. A side benefit is that the engagement zone is larger, so it's more progressive engagement, which also helps (but some might not like it.)

 

There's a guy over on ADV who modifies the clutch arm for KLR's and other bikes, making it a little longer with similar results. Lighter pull and longer engagement zone. I'm going to have one done for the KLR and thinking about it for the KLX too (Barnett springs). Price is similar. I see +/- of both methods. I'll report back if done.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527547

 

I'll disagree . I have barnett springs and ebc dirt racer clutch. I have my clutch hacked off so I can only use 2 fingers, my wrist only gets sore when I have to hold it in for long intervals (in traffic), riding around or fanning the clutch doesn't bother me a bit

 

Same thing here - I hacked off the end of the clutch lever so I can (only) get 2 fingers on it, which made a harder pull (less leverage), so I put the easy-pull on and it's helped a lot.

 

My question to you would be to ask if you've installed and run a big bore? Gotten the actual experience going from stock to big bore. Not saying you're wrong, just saying...

Reason it is the most bang for the buck is the big bore adds power over the entire range, not just peak horsepower or torque. That is why it is the best bang for the buck. It makes totally useable rideable power from a lower rpm up. It can run with the stock carb with the KLX300 needle, change the main as needed, the needle may be something already done. No real tricks needed.

My KLX may not even make as much horsepower with the bigger piston as it did stock, but boy does it pull stronger from three grand on up! I don't know the horsepower because I just don't care enough to spend the money on the dyno time. I just know when it runs against a similar but stock bike it will pull on past it quite easily. Not everything depends on paper.

A story I often tell - which I actually saw - a friend put his V-Max on a dyno at Mid-Ohio races one year. It had individual filters, jetting and a Kerker header with the large competition baffle - sounded like a big block Chevy! He had it dynoed. He was disappointed when it only showed about 90 hp. But then the guy asked him, "Who built your motor?" My friend was confused, he pointed out it "It's a 42,000 mile bike with pods, stage 3 jetting and a header. It only made 90 hp." The dyno operator said, "Yes, but look at that torque curve!" It hit hard at a low rpm and held high all the way to the peak, strong enough to catch the eye of the dyno operator. So high peak numbers aren't everything, it is how high for how broad a range.

But then that is just what I think based on my own experience. Others will have their own opinions as did you.

 

Big bore is everything. I went from a 23hp 250 to the 25hp 351 (before the pumper and better filter). And it is a whole new machine, the torque is gut busting, it pulls much harder than expected.

Up to about 35mph (with stock gearing AND pumper carb added; 29hp or so) it pulls just as hard as my drz400e! After that the drz RUNS away. I was surprised how well it held up.