Electrical issue.. darn.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-12-2014, 08:28 PM
daren1093251's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
Default Electrical issue.. darn.

Today, a normal day of riding I realized my flashers stopped working. As soon as I turned on the key, and hit the flasher it would flash once they not work again. Horn, headlight and display still worked. I just ignored it for a week or 2 just using my hand signals. Then today, I turn the key on and as soon as I hit the starter I hear a 'bzzz!' from the front right of the bike, I let go of the starter, display still on etc, hit the starter button again and works just fine. Ran the bike all day, then put her to bed to work on the next day. The next day I forget about the issue and hit the starter button and it does 'bzzz' again and the display goes off like theirs no power anywhere. I took off the seat and checked the fuses near the air box (Theirs 3, all 10 amps and has one spare) the middle one was blown. I put in the spare fuse, still nothing. I checked the big 20 amp fuse that's near the one I opened, it's still good. Where else does this bike have fuses? If it's not a fuse, what could it be? When I click the starter button the starter still turned, so it's not burnt out.. Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 09-12-2014, 09:20 PM
wildcard's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,414
Default

check the grounds and battery terminals first.
 
  #3  
Old 09-12-2014, 10:26 PM
daren1093251's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
Default

Just checked, everything checks out. Cleaned terminals and the ground by brushing, still no go. I'm thinking the CDI is gone, any way of testing?
 
  #4  
Old 09-12-2014, 10:32 PM
MaximusPrime's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: WMNF, NH, USA
Posts: 1,264
Default

Sounds like a bad battery.
Not saying it doesn't happen, but I've never had a CDI unit go bad (by itself).
 
  #5  
Old 09-12-2014, 11:02 PM
daren1093251's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
Default

Originally Posted by MaximusPrime
Sounds like a bad battery.
Not saying it doesn't happen, but I've never had a CDI unit go bad (by itself).
I can't test the battery right now as I just left for work, but the battery was fairly new (Well, 4000 KM) but it is possible. Could water have damaged anything? The bike sat outside during a rain storm (25mm). Thanks for all your helpful replies though!
 
  #6  
Old 09-13-2014, 04:55 AM
IDRIDR's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 4,507
Default

Originally Posted by daren1093251
Just checked, everything checks out. Cleaned terminals and the ground by brushing, still no go. I'm thinking the CDI is gone, any way of testing?
I blew my CDI by my own poor wiring job. Checked it my taking my CDI over to a friend with a 2007 bike. Her bike started fine with her cdi, but wouldn't with mine. Picked a used one up from flebay and that is what I'm using now.

I know of no way of testing it other than putting yours on another good running same bike.
 
  #7  
Old 09-13-2014, 03:46 PM
Lotrat's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 653
Default

Sounds like the battery. Put a meter on it and hit the starter. If the DC colapes below 10V, then it's time for a new one. As voltage drops, current rises to do the same job. This may have caused the blown fuse. I wouldn't do anything else til you check the battery out.
 
  #8  
Old 09-17-2014, 10:57 AM
turbomaniac's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 45
Default

battery must be at least 12,6 V when engines off and 13,5V while engine operates. you can check it with a cheap voltmeter.

also is there any fuse for the turning signals?

if the battery is off, i have ways to suggest you to regenarate it.
 
  #9  
Old 09-17-2014, 02:02 PM
Lotrat's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 653
Default

While checking the state of charge is a good place to start, a load test is better. You can have a battery that reads 12 volts, but under load it fails.

Check this video out:
 
  #10  
Old 09-17-2014, 02:20 PM
turbomaniac's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 45
Default

Originally Posted by Lotrat
Sounds like the battery. Put a meter on it and hit the starter. If the DC colapes below 10V, then it's time for a new one. As voltage drops, current rises to do the same job. This may have caused the blown fuse. I wouldn't do anything else til you check the battery out.

i agree the load checking is better. IMO even if the load voltage is over 9V you can keep the battery.

Mine's is 8.5V at load, and it lasts 1 week dropping only from 12,78 to 12,6V, without any charging....

of course i have a simple (and cheap) A/c 220 to DC 13V-0.5A converter) so i can charge my battery whenever i want. It is slow i know, but it charge realy well and could recover voltage from 2V to 12,8V in 6 hours.

if you have a 13V and until 2A AC to DC converter, you dont need any sophisticaded high tech (and cost) chargers.
 


Quick Reply: Electrical issue.. darn.



All times are GMT. The time now is 10:16 PM.