Well, I've had the kit for about two months now but haven't had the time to put it in. Let me just say that if I can do it, anybody can do it! I have never been inside a carb and I have never performed that much "surgery" on any bike I have owned. I am truly a beginner when it comes to maintenance.

When I started, I used the HMF Engineering thread as a reference but since that bike is an 06 and mine is an 09, there were some differences. For example, apparently the 09 does not have the "TPS," whatever that is. Also various valves and hoses seemed to be different.

I have to say that the carb came out a lot easier than I thought it would. It was a little bit tight but not bad at all. Once I got it out, I had no idea what a "slide" was, or where it was located. I didn't realize I had to take both ends of the carb apart but once I figured that piece out, everything went smooth.

I immediately put the diaphragm into a bowl of hot water and when I was ready to put it back together it went in perfectly. No problem whatsoever.

I replaced the needle with the one supplied by dynojet. I put the e-clip on the 3rd notch and I put two washers on top of it (per the instructions). After I got that end put back together, I flipped it over and replaced the main jet with a 128. I know the kit says a 124 if you don't have an aftermarket exhaust, but cliffsta says he used a 128 and he and I are both at sea level so I figured I'd go with the bigger one.

I really couldn't see much of a difference between the stock main jet and the dynojet 128 but I'm sure there must be (right?).

Then I drilled out the other thingamajig and put in the kouba screw I ordered. (Thanks to the forum for the heads up on that!). I screwed it all the way in and then 3 full turns out. (per dynojet's instructions).

After I got it all back together, I put the carb back in (it actually went in easier than it came out), buttoned it all back up and tried to start it up.

It started instantly and seemed to idle perfect. I let it warm up and then took it for a quick spin around the block. It didn't hesitate, backfire, or give me any problems whatsoever. I still need to take it on a real ride but it's raining out right now so I can't really check it out as well as I would like.

The whole process took me about 2 hours. Not too bad. I had visions of bringing my bike and a box of parts to the dealer in shame but everything turned out good.

Thank you forum members for all the advice and giving me the confidence to tackle this job! Sorry I didn't take pictures, I was concentrating too heavily to try and put together a picture post. Plus it's been done a few times already.

Thanks again!

 

Congrats on your install! I was a little intimidated at first too but it's really not that bad! I never had any problems with the diaphram expanding, even after 10 minutes. 128 main sounds to rich for you! I had a 128 on mine with my full muzzy exhaust and I was running so rich! I put a 124 and my bike doesn't stutter at high rpms anymore. I'm at sea level also! But each bike is different, so it might work for you!

 

Thanks jpaul. Hopefully the 128 will work out but if I have to go to a 124 I know it won't be too difficult. I did remove the snorkel so hopefully that will help with using a 128.

 

I removed my snorkel also and my set up is perfect right now. When I had the 128, it ran good with the airbox lid off. I have both dyno jets and keihin jets for some wierd reason. It's hard to get it right the first time. I love working on my bike so it doesn't bother me to try and experiment all the jet sizes.

 

128 is perfect for me, maybe a tad rich. I'd stick with it. Its better to run a bit rich than run lean. I only went like 2 1/4 turns out on the fuel screw, but you've got the Kuda so you can adjust it alot easier if that's too rich. I've got the snorkel out and a TwinAir filter. If you're at sea level, plus I'd imagine the air temps are a bit cooler there in CA, 128 sounds perfect to me. I know in summertime I'm probably on the rich side when its 90 degrees in the shade but I've always been told its better to have it dialed a tad on the rich side.

I'd recommend leaving the lid on... I know guys here ride with the lid off but my bike surged noticeably even with the TwinAir and 128 main. With a stock exhaust I'd leave the lid on, just having the snorkel out greatly improves the airflow.

 

Awesome dude,, glad it all went smooth,,

 

I don't like the way my bike sounds with the airbox lid off! The snorkel is what restricts the bike the most. I've tried many jet sizes and my set up(124dj main, 3rd notch on needle, 35 pilotjet, 2 turns out) right now seems to work the best for my bike. I've tried many different set ups. 128 main jet should work good for most people though!

 

I just took it for a ride so I got a chance to see how the new jet system enhanced the bike.

For one thing, it seems much louder with the snorkel out. I'm not sure I like the noise factor yet but maybe it takes some getting used to. As far as power, I definitely noticed an improvement over the stock setup. It seems to be running perfect as far as I can tell.

How would I know if it's running rich?

Also, what does the fuel screw actually do? I have it three turns out but it seems most people run it 2.5 turns. I'm not sure what it actually does.

So far I'm happy. I think I will order the KDX snorkel to see if I can keep the higher air flow but reduce the noise.

Now I just have to put the dynojet stickers on... :-)

 

Read this.

 

Wow, thatnks WestOzKLX. That explains a lot.