I have a Japanese model with the same display.

- When you first turn-on the ignition key, you should get a number read-out for 3 seconds. If not, the LCD display is bad.

- If you DO have a display, check that you can switch betweed ODO and Clock using the 'ODO/Clock' button and between trip A and trip B distance read-out using the 'trip A/B' button. If you can't do any of the above, replace the meter unit.

-If your display is frozen, disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds, then re-connect.

-If all display functionas are OK, remove the white connector on the back of the meter and check for 7VDC between R and BK (color of wires going to the pins). If the voltage is normal, check the pulse generator by connecting a DC voltmeter to the same (white) connector beetween W and BK wires. Turn the front wheel slowly and you should see the voltage fluxuate between 8VDC and ZERO. You should have 8 of these cycles per one rotation of the wheel.

If you don't get the proper fluxuations, take off the front wheel and pull the speed sensor apart. Sometimes parts get damaged in there. There is one bushing in particular that bites the dust during rough usage. In the end you may end-up having to replace the sensor.

Let me know what you find and I should be able to source any parts.

OH, and the W/BK wire should be 12vdc at all times (ignition on or off) for clock power. The Brown wire should have 12vdc only with ignition on (points that section of the book doesn't really say to check, but they should be included).

Good luck.

 

Hey I have the same Digital Speedo too.. I subscribed to the Cyclepedia.com KLX250 Manual and they cover all models of the KLX including the Model with this Speedo... For the people who want to see what this speedo looks like.. Here it is :

 

Wow tremor you got some good info. Is that fromt he service manual?

 

I covered what was in the service manual then added what I felt was missing due to personal experience and common sense.

Kawi has some really lame wording so I kinda put everything in my own words.

I hope it helps the guy out. It's tough to be somewhere that you don't have parts support for the model of bike you have.

 

hi thank tremor that is excellent information. all is well with dash end the problem is in the wheel as the drivethat turns with the wheel has disintergrated! to be honest unless i can change the display to mph it will not be worth repairing.
chassis no is LX250E315697
heres goes with a picture of the offend bike!

 

Is that a RSV Exhaust you got on there?

 

Not sure about the tailpipe, certainly looks like yours so could be. It was on the bike when i bought it. She was all fitted out supermoto style when i got my hands on her! could certainly shift on the road the previous owner claimed he had seen 110mph on the clock now with 14/51 gearing would be lucky to see half that! But at least we can now climb hills a bit better!

 

110Mph Sounds a bit much.. The fastest i'v been on my KLX is 127Kmph on a 1/5km road that is.. With the 13T Sprocket too, so I think I should be able to do about 140-145kmph on a longer road..

 

I hit 106 mph indicated today with the supermoto wheels.

I think that's really 96 mph indicated normally...soo...88 mph true?

Someone else do the math.

 

17 is 81% of 21.
So 106 x .81 = 86
So an indicated 106mph is actually indicating 86mph.
Then subtract say another 5% for speedo error.
82mph.

Does that sound right?
I haven't worried about actual rolling circumferences or differences in tyre profiles, just rim diameter.