Complete rebuild
#51
I just looked in the parts book... theres 2 on the case to barrel joint, and 2 more on the barrel to head. they also align the base and head gaskets. obviously, the head gasket is important on liquid cooled engines, so best to mock fit on the head to verify the passages all line up, especially if using an aftermarket gasket. I have stories... anyway, the base gasket isn't usually that critical unless there are drainback holes (common on vintage bikes) but check it anyway
#52
I just looked in the parts book... theres 2 on the case to barrel joint, and 2 more on the barrel to head. they also align the base and head gaskets. obviously, the head gasket is important on liquid cooled engines, so best to mock fit on the head to verify the passages all line up, especially if using an aftermarket gasket. I have stories... anyway, the base gasket isn't usually that critical unless there are drainback holes (common on vintage bikes) but check it anyway
#53
#54
I just looked in the parts book... theres 2 on the case to barrel joint, and 2 more on the barrel to head. they also align the base and head gaskets. obviously, the head gasket is important on liquid cooled engines, so best to mock fit on the head to verify the passages all line up, especially if using an aftermarket gasket. I have stories... anyway, the base gasket isn't usually that critical unless there are drainback holes (common on vintage bikes) but check it anyway
I took the top end apart again last night and inserted the pins. Bolting it back up before the weekend.
#55
Back to my starter relay/switch fuse problem ... I found the cause. The chain rubbed on the wire bundle to the voltage regulator.
I must have put this back together incorrectly after the rebuild. Can someone please share a picture of how this area should be assembled?
Thanks!
I must have put this back together incorrectly after the rebuild. Can someone please share a picture of how this area should be assembled?
Thanks!
#56
We rode *all* day Sunday on logging roads, trails, and highways around the Clatskanie, OR area. The bike ran strong and pulls up to 74mph easily -- as fast as I had the nerve to take it.
Fuel mileage is horrible. It's getting around 70 highway miles on a tank cruising at around 62mph.
I put the 14t front sprocket back on and lowered my cruising RPM by about 500 rpm but I think a larger tank is needed.
Does anyone have a suggestion for an oversized tank that clears the TM36-68 carb?
Fuel mileage is horrible. It's getting around 70 highway miles on a tank cruising at around 62mph.
I put the 14t front sprocket back on and lowered my cruising RPM by about 500 rpm but I think a larger tank is needed.
Does anyone have a suggestion for an oversized tank that clears the TM36-68 carb?
#57
I think you need to go through the carb again. I get 60mpg at highway speeds like 65mph. I have the stock carb with 300 jets, snorkel removed, and an FMF pipe. you have a Mikuni flat slide, and ya its different but it still meters fuel, and engines all like a certain ratio to run right. running a pumper will cost you some, especially under changing ride conditions but steady state on the highway shouldn't be much different than stock
Last edited by dogmeat; 07-02-2019 at 06:02 PM.
#60
One problem with the rebuild — there is oil seeping from this hole under the water pump:
I thought it may be a weep hole for the water pump. I wonder if I installed a seal incorrectly to cause this?
It is a slow leak but makes a good mess after a long day of riding. Still, not enough to require topping off the oil.
I thought it may be a weep hole for the water pump. I wonder if I installed a seal incorrectly to cause this?
It is a slow leak but makes a good mess after a long day of riding. Still, not enough to require topping off the oil.