I didn't need to replace my chain, but they are just hyvo-link plate chains so if the dimensions are good it should be fine.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OP...Zj84ec-V9d0O8w
This is the tool I fabbed to support the case while I drove the main bearing into place. If I remember correctly, everything slid together after freezing the new crank and putting the cases and bearing in the oven.

 

Hi, GBAUTO.

That's a nice looking grow operation you have there
All the bud is obscuring the view of the crank bearing install tool XD

 

is that a Kawasaki chain?

 

It's from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-Cam-Tim...53.m2749.l2649

Its compatibility table lists the KLX. The description lists several Suzuki's:

 

sorry for that. Hope the right one finally got posted

 

I find "pre-stretched" interesting. Chains do NOT stretch, the pins wear. They get longer as the pins wear. You could probably hang a car from a hook with that chain and the plates will not stretch. The "stretch" experienced is as the rollers, pins, plates, etc. wear into each other a bit. I'd be surprised if the OEM chain was actually worn out. They just don't wear a lot. I put 30,000 miles on my 650 cam chain and it only seated in less than 1 turn of the adjuster bolt - less than .050" wear.

 

I have experience with KMC chains. Not bad, but not great. I gotta tell ya, if it was me, and I just spent $500 on a crank due to the t-chain sprocket teeth getting knocked off, I wouldnt be connecting a $20 KMC chain to it, no way.

Those are Piranha and Lifan chains

 

I recognize the name Lifan. Chinese. Not that it is bad, just sayin'. I trust good Chinese work enough to buy one of the AHL 299cc kits, but there are other products I wouldn't trust as far as I can throw them. Cheap drive chains among them. DID, RK, or EK for me, wherever they're made. Which brings up a point...

On the other hand, KMC - who makes their chains? Makes me curious.

I also have to say there are numerous Kawasakis going six digits on the OEM chain. I'm not seeing either chain as much of an issue and don't see it as the cause of broken teeth on the crank. I'd be pointing at those chunks from the tensioner. That chain would have to wad up and break to cause that damage - didn't happen.

 

Just a note on RK chains. Its the only drive chain I will purchase. Its equal to DID and Renthal. BUT they have a low cost economy line that is typically in a red box and it says Made in Malaysia. They are absolutely junk. They're normal and high end Chains can't be beat. They will say made in Japan on the box

 

Point made, I won't be using the Kracks Many Cases Co cam chain. I have the OEM part on order.

Update:

All new bearings are installed.

First a message from our sponsor: This blind bearing pull is brought to you by Mickey's malt liquor (helps to quell rage brought on by stubborn blind bearings):



Balancer shaft bearing and case damage. The freely roaming cam tooth did a number on the case and bearing.



Damage vs not.

New bearings installed

Brand-spainkin'-new crank shaft. Let the good times roll.


Pulling these bearings was a serious PITA especially the blind bearings. Even after heating the case halves in an oven @ 220f for 15 minutes, much time and force was required to dislodge them.
I froze the bearings and heated the cases to install the new set.

Your tips for joining the cases back together are solicited. I'll be using the Tusk crank puller. I have found a little info online about the overall procedure but nothing beats learning from someone experience.