Christmas in September.

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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #1  
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Talking Christmas in September. Updated.

Seems like I've been gathering a few items for the bike over the last few months. Time really has been at a premium lately as we've just has our second daughter and 5 weeks on she's doing great as are big sis' and mum.

So this collection just got a nice boost a couple of weeks ago when from the local web ads I picked up a brand new boxed Kawasaki OE 300cc big bore kit. AUS $400 and it was mine.

I've tidied the garage and cleared the bench ready for some spannering, and with the fridge stocked with some premium brews I should be in for a few fun afternoons, or late nights (baby dictating.) The nice oversize footpegs have already found their way onto the bike and look very sturdy.

So the list is;

1. OE Kawasaki 300cc big bore kit. Valve clearance check as well so I may be doing new valve shims at the same time???
2. Goodridge front and rear stainless brake lines. (Thanks again pops for the swift delivery.)
3. Clarke 10.5 litre clear tank. Gold alloy "bling" breather and new blue fuel hoses. (Thanks Neilaction, and Waitesy.)
4. Renthal R3 'o' ring chain and 45 tooth Renthal rear sprocket (fitted up with the OE 14 tooth sprocket I took off the bike.) Up one tooth on the front as the 300cc will have more torque.
5.Pirelli front and rear tyres. 110/100-18 Scorpion MX Extra rear and 80/100-21 Scorpion XCMS front. Front fitted up with a new HD tube and a Talon billet rimlock. I already have a Talon rimlock and HD tube in the rear. I've ordered some brass spoke weights to balanced the new tyres, So speed above 100 should be a bit smoother.
6. Picked up a N1TC needle and clip cheap, so I'll remove the N1RX I've been using and give it a go once the 300 kit is on.
7. While I'm at it I'll treat the girl to a new NoToil air filter. The 3 Twin Airs I've been rotating are looking a bit ropey so a change is due. Thought I'd give a NoToil a bash as a cheap one literally fell into my lap.


I'll try and get a report and some pics up once bits are fitted up and have had a thorough test. If anyone has any questions regarding supply, cost, part numbers etc. PM away.
 
Attached Thumbnails Christmas in September.-img_4830.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4832.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4833.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4834.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4836.jpg  


Last edited by WestOzKLX; Sep 23, 2010 at 09:39 AM.
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:53 PM
  #2  
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Nice find on the 300 kit. That works out to 1.25 a cc is US funds. All the kits that Bill Blue offers work out at 1.47 - 1.51 a cc.
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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Ahhh...now I think I see why you were asking about Race Tech suspension mods for the KLX. You look like you're on a wholesale upgrade. Good stuff.

You know...I used an OEM 300 kit for my '06, and I've been extremely pleased with it. Seems like the engine really responds when it has at least the displacement that it was originally designed to run with. No flies on any other big bore kits that I've seen used, and the 351 is probably the best ultimate candidate. Still, the 300 moves the KLX up a notch in a noticeable way, and like you I was able to get one on the cheap. Mine was $200 less than the BB351.
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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Ahhhh, maaaaaaaayte! I'm so so jealous! I have been using your bike's specs as a sort of yardstick for my bike, and you've just taken a huge leap forward!

Congrats on the your new little 'un too. I was beginning to wonder why you'd been so quiet of late, but it makes sense now.

Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
So this collection just got a nice boost a couple of weeks ago when from the local web ads I picked up a brand new boxed Kawasaki OE 300cc big bore kit. AUS $400 and it was mine.
So did they just have the 1 kit? Or do they have any more? Coz at that price I am definitely keen on one! I presume the kit will work on a 2010 model still.

Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
2. Goodridge front and rear stainless brake lines. (Thanks again pops for the swift delivery.)
I am hoping my front line will arrive today actually. I ordered it from K300 as you suggested, but had to have it sent here directly which bumped it's price up quite a bit. I've gone for green pipes with shadow fittings if I remember correctly. Also asked them to make it about 5cm longer for better clearance of the handlebars, so will be interesting to see if they did that. Thanks for putting me onto these guys though.


Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
5.Pirelli front and rear tyres. 110/100-18 Scorpion MX Extra rear and 80/100-21 Scorpion XCMS front. Front fitted up with a new HD tube and a Talon billet rimlock. I already have a Talon rimlock and HD tube in the rear. I've ordered some brass spoke weights to balanced the new tyres, So speed above 100 should be a bit smoother.
Confirm the MX Extra isn't DOT approved? Any reason why you went for the MX Extra over the XC Mid Hard on the rear? I like the look of the MX Extra and the fact that Pirelli rate it for use over such a wide range of surfaces, but because I primarily use my bike for commuting to/from work I feel I really should get a DOT tyre.
Similar question on the XC Mid Soft you are putting on the front - have you mainly done that coz you ride a lot of sand in West Aus? I'm probably leaning towards the XC Mid Hard on the front when it comes time to get a new tyre, but the spacing of the knobblies is a little bit of a concern given how much blacktop riding I do.
Why do you feel you need a rimlock on the front? Do you expect to be running your tyre pressures that low with these tyres that the tyre will move and tear the tube? I'm even wondering how necessary the rim lock is on the rear for the 250 to be honest. With the stock carb I can't see the engine managing to produce enough of a power burst to make the rear tyre slip in the rim - unless you run extremely low pressures. As an insurance policy I'll probably fit one on the rear when I get a new tyre, but wonder if it's overkill.


Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
I'll try and get a report and some pics up once bits are fitted up and have had a thorough test. If anyone has any questions regarding supply, cost, part numbers etc. PM away.
Yeah please do! I am very interested in how you go with this.
 
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 01:21 AM
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ha ha well Merry Christmas G-man. I will tell you that I've had a No-Toil filter for about 2 years, and just this last time cleaning it, I noticed the seams on the outer layer of foam were splitting in a couple spots. The finer inner foam was still holding together well. I really don't know if 2yrs is good or bad, but I would assume it's a respectable amount of time for a filter to last. If you use the No-Toil oil on it you can avoid buying the No-Toil cleaner and simply get some Oxy-Clean (cheaper). You will need one or the other to clean the filter, or your hands, off. That No-Toil oil doesn't come off with just any soap.
Well have fun playing with all your new toys, and yeah put up some pics!
Dan
 
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 05:19 AM
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Man, there are few things nicer than getting a box of parts and fresh tires. Good times.
 
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Nobrakes
Man, there are few things nicer than getting a box of parts and fresh tires. Good times.
Yeah...I can think of a couple......hehehehe
 
Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by deej
Yeah...I can think of a couple......hehehehe
To each his own.
 
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 12:52 AM
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PROGRESS REPORT:

Got the rear tyre fitted up yesterday. The shop had the wheel for a few days taking out a very large ding acquired while heroing some clay erosion mounds some time ago. The rim stayed true for over 4000 km but with a small gape at the tyre it was letting some dirt and water into the rim. They did a pretty good job, torqued all the spokes on the rear too, and replaced 1 nipple. All for AUS $35.

Fitting the tyre was pretty straight forward (practiced with the irons quire a few times over winter.) As I have a rimlock on the rear, and an HD tube I wanted to balance the new tyre. (I was getting some gyration when the speeds got up above 100km.) I purchased some brass spoke weights from AEROstitch (http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-...e-weights.html). Great service BTW, and prompt delivery. (No affiliation.)

I weighed the Talon 2.15 rimlock I have and it came in at 76 grams (2.6 ounces.) I figured that with the weight of the HD tubes valve I need 2.75 ounces (78 grams) of weights to balance the rim. The weight kit comes with 6 weights in brass (2 X 1 oz, 2 X .5 oz, 2 X .25oz.) I used both the 1 oz and 1 each of the other sizes to make up the required 2.75 oz.

I made up up a rig for balancing the wheel using some axle stands and my short power bar. Adding the weights to the spokes opposite the rimlock had the wheel balanced pretty quickly. I first dry fitted the weights to get the balance. Yo have to remove them and refit with some blue Loktite on the weights threads once you have the correct balance.

Nice way to spend an hour or so on a sunny spring morning.

I'll do the front today with the same method, although the front tyre is DOT and has a "red dot" on the carcass to show the tyres light spot. It may not need as much weight to balance. I'll set the tyre with the red dot next to the rimlock.

Out of interest. I put the new 110/100-18 Pirelli Scorpion MX eXtra up against the old Dunlop tyres I had. The one on the left is the OE Dunlop D603 in 4.6 x18 and the middle is a Dunlop D606 in 120/90-18. You can see that the tyres get progressively taller (left to right.) When I first put the 606 on I noticed the bike was a bit taller and had the stand less stable when parked on the slab. The new Pirelli looks taller than the 606 even though the 606 has no ***** left. Hmmmmm!?

We're having some friends over for dinner on the WE so I bashed together the new BBQ I bought in the winter sales. Gonna get some hickory flakes today and do some smokin' to try it out before the WE.
 
Attached Thumbnails Christmas in September.-img_4909.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4910.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4911.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4906.jpg   Christmas in September.-img_4903.jpg  


Last edited by WestOzKLX; Sep 23, 2010 at 01:00 AM.
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
Fitting the tyre was pretty straight forward (practiced with the irons quire a few times over winter.) As I have a rimlock on the rear, and an HD tube I wanted to balance the new tyre. (I was getting some gyration when the speeds got up above 100km.) I purchased some brass spoke weights from AEROstitch (http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-...e-weights.html). Great service BTW, and prompt delivery. (No affiliation.)

I weighed the Talon 2.15 rimlock I have and it came in at 76 grams (2.6 ounces.) I figured that with the weight of the HD tubes valve I need 2.75 ounces (78 grams) of weights to balance the rim. The weight kit comes with 6 weights in brass (2 X 1 oz, 2 X .5 oz, 2 X .25oz.) I used both the 1 oz and 1 each of the other sizes to make up the required 2.75 oz.

I made up up a rig for balancing the wheel using some axle stands and my short power bar. Adding the weights to the spokes opposite the rimlock had the wheel balanced pretty quickly. I first dry fitted the weights to get the balance. Yo have to remove them and refit with some blue Loktite on the weights threads once you have the correct balance.
That's cool. I had the bike shop that I bought my new tyre from fit the tyre and rimlock for me and asked them to balance it at the same time. The guy said you cannot balance a knobbly tyre :-( I also noticed he didn't put the yellow dot right where the valve is which is a little annoying. I don't know how big a difference this is going to make.

I think I'll order a set of those weights and try balance the tyre myself. When you spun the wheel on your DIY balancer, what were you looking for to determine you had the right amount of weights in the right position?
 



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