this is because the factory cant set the bike up for everyriders weight, riding style, prefrences, and riding conditions. they set them up for a medium weight rider, with average riding conditions.

 

Well I realize that, and that's kind of my point. Most any suspension component, and especially the OEM KLX, benefits from internal revalving. So why not just revalve what you have? And again, don't get my statements wrong...installing a notably beefier KX fork might yield noticeable results. But we are talking about a KLX here. I gotta admit, I don't think I've ever left any motorcycle I've ever owned in stock condition, but wholesale replacement of the major suspension components seems pretty severe when you can improve the OEM units to such a high degree. I've seen some KLR650's modded with KX forks, and I kind of understand that in the sense that the stock fork is almost a hopeless ported orifice unit with wimpy sized stanchions.

That said, are some of you getting these KX forks at ridiculously low prices? I've never shopped them, so pricing is unknown to me. I'm not an ebay affcianado. I guess if you're getting them at a rock bottom price, it's not that much of a problem. Also I guess you have to use the wheel for that particular fork?

 

the extra inch and half plus of travel im guessing, not 100% sure but the klx has about 9 inchs, vs a real moto bike with 11 to 12. my problem is even though thats nice, im bottoming out a lot more in the rear than the front. i would have to ride one of these first before i say anything for sure, but unless you work the rear, i see no point in franken-forking the front. you find me a way to add the same amount of travel to the rear, ill be searching for a set of forks tomarrow. personally, im finding this issue (suspention travel) is the bikes main weakness for me.

 

A fair bit of the reason people change the forks (from what I read) for a KX setup is adjustability, longer travel and better quality components.

 

.46 springs in the front along with 'Gold Valves" from Racetech and a 6.2 spring in the back should be enough for most guys on this forum. Once you get to 250 LB then you may struggle to get the supension set.

FWIW my 2007 KLX250RH7 came from the factory with 285 mm and 280 mm, front and rear suspension respectively. That's about 11" each end in my book.

 

that was before they change the suspention in mid 07, and then changed it again in 09 and took even more travel out. im pretty sure the 09 is just above 9 on both ends. ill have to check where the travel in the back was taken out, and see if the old forks and shock work on the 09. someone one on here should know something about this.

edit:http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/arc.../t-775317.html
from that link, it looks like changing the linkage to pre 09 would add some rear travel, but i doubting a hell of a lot. maybe theres a way to add even more.

edit x2:http://www.motorcycle.com/manufactur...iew-79658.html
my bad, its 10 inches up front and 9.1 in back. also found on another website (http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/...s-ar48888.html), that it looks like the 07's after the change was 10.2 in front. didnt say anything about out back though.

 

Plan B- a few years ago I found some stroker suspension-(Larry L's old company) for the klx- had it rebuilt- was night and day difference. Was the 2nd best mod next to the 331 kit.

 

I have the '06 with 11" of travel, and I guess that's about as much as I want for a dual sport 250 bike. I couldn't tell what the OP might end up with as far as a model goes. From redpillar's fork spring thread recently, I take it that Kaw just put some kind of reduction spacer in the fork. I wonder how they reduced the rear? Yeah, I think it's a shame that they reduced the travel from '09 forward, as I thought the previous models had a very decent saddle height for an 11" travel rear.

Again, I'm not dissin' anyone's modification efforts involving the KX components. Just wanted to point out the excellent results that you can get out of mods from MotoPro, Racetech, and others that totally transform the existing components. They're basically older KX units, and with more sophisticated internals, they really perform.

I was also curious how a set of 46mm beefier forks work for or against a mild steel frame like the KLX has. I suspect the beefier KX forks are normally attached to an equally beefier frame than the KLX. Just speculating on that. Brewster?

 

I've done the whole route, stock, then resprung, then added Goldvalves to the forks, then the 43mm KX forks, and then tried the 46mm KX forks. I did my own trial and error reshimming of the shock, after respringing it for my weight (155 lbs). For my weight, riding style (mid level), and terrain, the 43mm KX forks work the best. The 46mm KX forks were too firm for me. I did not try reshimming the KX forks.

When evaluating the forks, remember that you cannot get to or adjust the rebound valving on the KLX forks. That is a major difference between the KLX and KX forks.

Impact to the frame will depend on springs, valving, rider weight and riding style.

BTW, I have a 2000, KLX 300.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Brilliant information & replies from all.
Just to recap; if I get a complete front from one of the years mentioned above, I can bolt it straight on to my 07 KLX250S, will I need brakes, wheel etc?

I have had my forks rebuilt with the 'best of the best' they were OK for a while but due to some damage I have to constantly replace seals, rather than get replacement KLX forks I want to improve the suspension as much as possible.
Thanks again guys, all info is greatly appreciated.
BTW: I am 6-3, 190lbs. Ride everything from sand to boulders to coal dust. You name it!