Does anyone know what the float setting should be and how to measure if it's correct or not?

I had my bike jetted in anticipation of installing my Big Gun exhaust, but it ran like crap because it was way too rich, so now I'm trying to adjust the jetting to at least let me use my bike (Yeah, Big Gun is still dinking me around with the head pipe thing ... don't get me started.) [:@]

I've got the KDX high-flow snorkel, and 1/2" holes drilled in the OEM exhaust - 1st AND 2nd baffles. I changed the main jet from 128 to 124, and it runs Ok, up until about 7K RPM at 3/4 throttle. If I open the throttle wider in 5th or 6th gear, it starts to falter and won't accellerate ... close the throttle back to 3/4 and it smooths out again. In lower gears, it seems to accelerate past 7K without any problems. The needle is in the 3rd slot from the top, pilot jet is stock, fuel/air screw is at 2.25 turns. Everything seems to be running fine at lower engine speeds.

From other people's settings, the 124 main jet should be OK with the OEM exhaust, so I think that somehow I might have messed up the float setting when I changed the jet, but I'm not sure.

Also, how do I know that the carb is installed properly - it's seated in the rubber mounting bracket all the way, but I don't see anything to indicate if it's "rotated" vertically the right way. I looks like its Ok, but since it's tilted downward slightly, maybe there's a slight rotation needed to make sure the float etc. is level?

I know the manual probably provides these answers, but if I had one, I would ... [sm=icon_rtfm.gif]!

Thanks

 

Wow that seems like a lot of work just to have to change it when the new exhaust get in. I wouldn't have done all of that, I would have saved my time and energy to make sure the bike was clean and ready for when the new parts come in. I know i need help.

 

Normally I would wait, but based on what Phil told me about their "customer service" (<-- Oxymoron!!!), I have no reason to believe that Big Gun will get the replacement head pipe to me in a reasonable amount of time.

Meanwhile, the Kawasaki warranty clock is still ticking and nothing breaks when your bike is just sitting in the garage! I want to get more mileage on my bike this season, so that if something does break, it'll be covered under the warranty. Otherwise, Big Gun will have screwed me over even more than they realize.

Anyway, this thread is about float specs and measurements ... so, like I said in the original post:

Regards,

Mike

P.S. - Hey deej, after my bike is running and I manage to get it dirty, I will be coming to you for cleaning advice ... so consider this a "heads up"!

 

First: There is a small tab on the right, engine side of your carb. There is a small socket for that tab on the intake boot. That will clock your carb correctly.

Second: You went smaller on your main jet. You could be starving it at the upper RPM range.

 

Thanks, Cowboy, I just checked and my carb has the small tab, but the intake boot has 2 tabs rather than a socket. Same principle, though, the carb tab fits between the 2 intake tabs when it's aligned properly. My carb was a little twisted, though - the carb tab was about half way over the bottom intake tab (it was fully seated, it just bent the rubber tab out of the way a bit.) Considering all the shaking that goes on, I don't think that misalignment is a contributing factor to the faltering, but it's now aligned properly anyway.

Regarding the smaller main jet, since it was way too rich at 128, is it possible that it's still a bit too rich at 124? I haven't checked the plug, yet, so that's a good next step.

Mike