I really NEED to get a low seat for my wifes bike; it's a 2007. Seat Concepts only sells the low seat seat for the 2009 and up. I realize the plastics are different. Could I use a 2009 seat and replace the side panels?

 

Although I'm not positive as I've not tried it nor can point to a post where someone has, I recall others have said 'no.'
There have been a number of riders who have shaved the seat foam down. This may be your best option. Try it yourself, work with an upholstery shop or check in with someone like Corbin or Sergent.

 

Why not go have a local auto upholsterer pull your seat cover and cut the foam down a few inches, then refit the stock cover? I'm betting it would likely be under $50 to do so. You could even do a small cut, test it, then more if needed.

Odds are a KLX300 seat will work if you don't want to use your stock seat.

 

Thanks for the recommendations. The stock seat is already terrible. Couldn't imagine how bad it would be with 1" cut out of it. I really just need to know about the fitment of the 09-up seat on the 07; if it can be made to fit. Cutting down other seat foam with the proper density is also something I'd consider. I need about 1" less AND comfortable; something the Seat Concepts low seat for the 09-up KLX's offer. They don't offer it for my 07. I even e-mailed them about it.

 

There's this guy that does seats that are raved about by the vstrom folks, and they like his prices. Maybe give him a call. https://www.terryscustomseats.com/

 

I take it you've already dropped the bike using links and raising forks in triple clamps? Seems most seat cutting is due to wanting to touch the ground, but maybe I'm wrong here.

 

No, I'm getting ready to have the suspension lowered by a shop and need to get the a little off the seat to keep more in the suspension.

I've gone ahead and bought a used KLX OEM seat fairly cheap to chop down and re-cover to get me where I need to be to move forward with the suspension lowering. We'll see how that seat chop works out. I can always experiment with it and try different foam layers, etc. I wanted to preserve my stock seat cause the bike is pretty pristine; like showroom new.

 

James from Performance Edge called me to ask about the '09 plus seat base so I am on here researching for you guys. I told James I don't think it will fit. He did my suspension and 1" lower seat concepts on my '14. Check out Werloc's page, he shows how he shaved his down. IDRIDR knows what he's talking about, these folks advice on here is golden.

 

Thanks for checking in. James told me about your bike. I may have to copy your rear fender setup. Got any links to pics or details?

Back to lowering my (wife's) bike; my plan as of now is to get the replacement OEM seat cut down about an inch ASAP regardless of how uncomfortable it may be so I can get the bike to James to get the suspension lowered. Ours is an 07 so it's a hair taller to begin with. Maybe the cut down OEM seat won't be as bad as I think it will be? I want to get the bike so she can ride it first and go from there on the seat.

 

I think the key thing is to find out if the KLX300 seat will fit your 2007, since that is the one you need and knowing if the 300 seat fits will make it easier to find a seat. If you could pick up an old one with a trashed cover for cheap it might be worth the risk. From what I saw in the parts listings the seats LOOK similar, but the tank mounting differs. It is possible to fabricate the tab for the tank mount, but it is all up to what you want to play with, you wouldn't want to pay someone to do all that.

If you have the money to do your suspension best, have the travel limited by using spacers in the shock and forks. Keeps the geometry and suspension travel will not bottom out against the inner fenders, since it will still be the same place. Could also change fluids at that time and valving if desired. It is the best way to do it, totally reversible, but not the least costly.

It would make sense if you go with links, to make or buy the lowering links for the rear. Then pull the shock, remove the spring, put the shock back in, install the links and check to see how much clearance there is when the shock is bottomed out to make sure it doesn't damage the inner fenders. On the front you could measure the open stanchion tube length, measure from the tire to the fender and see how far you can drop before the tire will hit the inside of the fender. That will tell you how far you can raise the tubes in the clamps before hitting hard parts.

Help us all, for future reference take some time and set up your profile with some general information. Mainly the year(s) of your bike(s) in a signature and definitely your general location, the state or country and some general location either directional or near what large city. It gives us a better focus on what may help in your needs, especially when it comes to carburetion which is totally dependent on general elevation where a couple thousand feet makes a difference.