I am going to take the MSF class and get my license for those inquiring.

I think I read in here to check to see if the odo numbers line up perfectly for clue if it may have been rolled back. I'm going over later this morning to make an offer.

Anything else on the bike I should check out? I mean when I rode it everything felt and sounded okay but you don't know what to look for unless you've had one of these. What are the little things that always break? Things like that...

Thanks for all the replies.

- Mark

 

I'm sure it's fine. There's really nothing little that always breaks.. If the motor runs good, trans shifts nice and crisp, idles good, no smoke, fluids are clean and where they should be, no leaks... Should be fine.

And I'd offer $2,600 before you agree to the $3k. Worst they can do is say no.

 

Welcome to the forums KE100, and welcome back to the best time in your life. I too grew up with various bikes, and then before I knew what happened 20 years had passed. Then as I was looking at bikes on the net...... on September of 05 I saw an ad for the 2006 KLX soon to be delivered to dealers in Washington State. Well I called up the dealer the next day and told them I wanted the first one that they got. They told me because they were the Western most dealership in Washington, and because of the volume that they sold, they were getting the first 2.....well first. I took possession of mine the same day it was still being put together on Wednesday November 23 2005. With 13,300 miles on my bike I have not regretted even one second of my choice. You will absolutely love the bike. Let us know if you have any starting issues with the bike if it sits for a week and we will show you what to do.

 

Reminds you of someone?

06' & 07' in my opinion were the best of the years. They have more of their off-road heritage still in them than the newer models that are more street comfy. Things to look for are the obvious ones. Look for dents, scraps, and anything bent that may indicate that it has been dropped or abused. Looking at the handle bars to see if they are true would be a good start. Also listen to the engine for any clanking noises. Some KLX engines suffer from a pre-mature woren out cam chain. It won't cause any problems, just really annoying to listen to at 5k rpms. Lastly, try to talk the price down a little or get a free helmet in the deal. KBB is $3,015, aim for around $2,800.

 

Hey now - My KLX has been dropped more times then I can count, and I'm willing to bet that mechanically it's in better shape than most other KLX's Just sayin, dropping it doesn't mean anything's wrong with it.. They're made to be dropped

 

Thats fine. I've dropped mine too a few times (mostly on me). Just that if it has been dropped, it may need a few repairs. Like handle bars, pegs, grips, mirrors, levers, etc. Something that can be used to haggle the price some or add to the cost in repairs.

 

1) I agree that the 06 and 07 were probably the best in terms of being more off-road worthy. I have an 06 myself.

2) have ytou EVER seen a single KLX250S with a morn cam chain? I've never heard of this. Perhaps in some other KLX engine this has happened but I dont know of it ever happening to a KLX250s. I have 13,000 miles on mine and it runs like new.

3) KBB value of $3015 is for an "average" '07 KLX250s. 800 miles on an 07 doesn't sound "average" to me so $3000 isn't out of line though as you and others have suggested, there may be some wiggle room.

 

Worn cam chain?...yes...I have one hanging on the wall in my shop. The reason is not a crappy chain or a bad guide design. It's from the tensioner not doing its job properly. Mine was worn out in 11,000 miles and made a nice "knack/knack" sound at idle and other odd points in the rpm range. I would say that most KLX's don't have this problem as the tensioner seems to do its job, but you will see enough complaints about this to confirm the cam chain noise.

The solution on a problematic tensioner is to replace it with an OEM version, replace it with a manual version (Krieger), or periodically treat the original tensioner like a manual tensioner. It seems that some tensioners don't extend enough over time because of some stiction, weak spring, or something else. This lets the chain run loose which oddly doesn't seem to wear the cam sprockets, guides, or crank gear to any degree but does let the chain stretch prematurely.

Now, I will occasionally pop the end cap off my tensioner and insert an allen wrench into the bore and moderately exert pressure into the back of the chain guide...no hammers or pry bars. My OEM tensioner was holding its position as evidenced by the lack of any slippage or wear marks at the ratchet teeth, but it was apparently not extending forward with enough force to keep the chain at a more optimum operating tension. Just replacing the chain totally removed the annoying knack-knack rattle, and it's quiet as heck now.

 

Okay just got back from the dealer and it's a done deal! I was only able to get them down to $2899. The bike is very clean and runs well so I'm pretty happy with the price. It was a one owner bike and he had everything from the day he bought it so I'm pretty confident that the 806 miles is accurate. There really isn't a scratch on it. They should be delivering it to me this afternoon.

I'm back in Kawasaki green after a 20 year layoff!

Gotta go clear out some room in the garage.

 

Congrats on the buy! You will love it. If it hasnt been tweeked, (pipe, jet kit, etc) and you want or need more power, this is the forum to find out what to do to it.