when put on my front brakes and they stick on until i am stopped, only happens when i am going at least 15kph or so. i have took off the caliper and cleaned everything, but its still happening. pads are fairly worn but not gone yet and they are evenly worn on each side, any help would be great!

 

Has the brake fluid ever been changed? As in suck the master cylinder empty, add fresh juice then bleed until fresh comes out of the caliper.

 

No not like that, only bled thru, and that was today because i lost some fluid due to removing the caliper

 

You need to do some diagnostic work- when the problem is happening and the wheel is stick, open the bleeder screw on the caliper and see if the brake releases. If it does then there is a restriction upstream so repeat the process of getting the brake to lock and then loosen the brake line fitting at the master cylinder, if the brake releases then the hose is ok and the problem is in the master cylinder. if it doesn't release then there is a restriction in the hose. If the m/c is not releasing pressure, make sure that the lever doesn't push on the piston when your not applying the brakes. There is a bypass port in the m/c that allows pressure to bleed off when you let go of the lever.
If the brake doesn't release when you open the bleeder screw on the caliper then the problem is the caliper sticking-you need to remove the piston and clean up the bore.

 

the brake becomes unstuck once the bike comes to a stop, there is no way for me to open the bleed screw while the problem happens. also i have cleaned the pistons very well today

 

Not to be a smart ***-but if the problem 'stops' when you stop how do you know it's the front brake that's dragging?

 

haha because when i pull in the lever, the lever locks up until the bike comes to a stop

 

Ok, are you saying that the brake lever doesn't release(stays pulled in towards the grip)? If that's the case then the problem has to be in the m/c or the pivot for the lever is binding.

 

(This may not be the case, here, but especially in auto/truck applications, the heat generated by the brake pad will conduct thru the piston and cause grit and moisture to lodge BEHIND the piston seal. Over time, it can lead from "sticky" to "seizure" of the piston movement. Best to NOT reverse bleed from caliper up thru master...will get the grit up where you don't want it. Bleed "top-down" or remove/disconnect the caliper and THEN bleed to get the crap out. Once the piston{s} seizes from crap, it's time for a caliper rebuild kit. Most times, getting the seal out is easy, but getting the piston{s} out is NOT fun. Just my experience....)

(Edit)--which is especially fun when you're dealing with 4-pot calipers. After disconnecting/removing the caliper and using compressed air to blow-out the pistons. I.e., one or two may extend and/or pop, but remaining pistons are stuck. Someone needs to invent a hi-pressure hydraulic foot pump w brake line fittings to blow the stubborn ones....)

 

When it sticks the lever will not move in or out until the bike stops