Brake/Clutch levers: OEM vs CNC Pivot style & Shorty

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  #11  
Old 05-15-2016, 04:01 PM
klx678's Avatar
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The real question becomes how much does a burnt clutch cost Adam Riemann?

If someone else is paying, no problem. If it comes from my pocket I'll work the throttle and back tire.
 
  #12  
Old 05-16-2016, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by klx678
The real question becomes how much does a burnt clutch cost Adam Riemann?

If someone else is paying, no problem. If it comes from my pocket I'll work the throttle and back tire.
I mostly agree, but there are times when you have to feather the clutch and it's not so bad for it if you're not doing it all the time.
Up here we have a lot of steep climbs that are often slab rock. When it's so steep that the front wheel comes up with the slightest increase in throttle, yet you are near stalling, you have to slip the clutch or stop on an incline that requires you to head back to the bottom.
I change the oil after those rides.
I'm at 53,000 miles and I might need new clutch plates now. Not sure if it was my old chain getting kinked or if it really was slipping a bit in 6th.

And if you're not slipping why are you using the clutch? The bike shifts pretty easy without it.
 
  #13  
Old 05-16-2016, 11:53 PM
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There is a Graham Jarvis video on YouTube where he describes using the clutch to control the bike using constant throttle doing uphill climbs. The clutch on bikes are pretty durable and slight slipping with good lubrication won't do alot of premature wearing.
Now, if your cranking the RPM s constantly and doing this, heat may be your enemy and premature wear will happen. But under proper conditions, and in the right gear, this is a good method to control the bike.
 
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