Bought the Kaw:
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 95
From: South of South Hills of Pittsburgh
Sounds like a good deal. On the rough idle and richness, I'd suspect that it's been sitting and will need a carb clean...mainly pilot circuit gummed up. That will also give you an opportunity to see how it's jetted. Tranny shifting may be due to needing an oil change. Adjust those valves at first opportunity IMO.
On posting 300 stuff here, the bikes are so almost identical that we just ought to differentiate between street legal and not as far as models go. I call my '06 KLX250S model a KLX300S model now since it has a factory 300 jug on it. I also used an Eibach shock spring for a 300 and Race Tech fork springs for the 300 in my bike...along with the Gold Valve suspension kit from RT for the 300.
On posting 300 stuff here, the bikes are so almost identical that we just ought to differentiate between street legal and not as far as models go. I call my '06 KLX250S model a KLX300S model now since it has a factory 300 jug on it. I also used an Eibach shock spring for a 300 and Race Tech fork springs for the 300 in my bike...along with the Gold Valve suspension kit from RT for the 300.
As it stands now, it has a 35 pilot and a 128 (DynoJet) main.
Any ideas where to get the shims for the valve adjustment?
Will the same shims work in the KLX250s, if so might I be better buying a kit with different sizes?
When I got the bike the PO gave me a KLX250R / KLX250 Motorcycle Service Manual (large white book) and a KLX300R Motorcycle Service Manual Supplement (large thin white book).
The forward of the 300 Supplement says that it's to be used in conjunction with the KLX250 Motorcycle Service Manual. So I guess the bikes (at least the older ones) are very similar.
Thanks for all the help.
Rob
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 667
From: Hayward, CA
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Ride on
Brewster
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From: SW Idaho
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Why just mid range and not to the tall end of spec?
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Vista, CA
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Some bikes don't use a master link. I just cut one off my kids CRF150 and put a new chain on with a master.
HF has a tool if you want to reuse the chain.
HF has a tool if you want to reuse the chain.
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Member
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 95
From: South of South Hills of Pittsburgh
Chain doesn't look bad, I just need to get it off to replace front sprocket?
It has some sort of master
link that's different than the other links, it's just not the slide off kind. And the links all look like they've been riveted on then the ends mushroomed?
I may end up sawing it off.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: South of South Hills of Pittsburgh
I'm glad you directed the question to Brewster, cause I don't have a clue
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From: SW Idaho
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I'd think we'd want to go to the tall end of spec on valves since they wear to the tight end. That's what my mechanic recommended. But Brewster knows his stuff and I'm very interested to know why he recommends mid-range.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: kootenay country BC Canada
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Here's my take:
1. adjusting valves to the tall end of spec = longest interval until need to readjust.
2. valves near low end of spec = slightly more performance (valves are opening more), but short interval to checking/adjusting.
3. mid spec adjustment = compromise between 1 & 2.
Just my $0.02
1. adjusting valves to the tall end of spec = longest interval until need to readjust.
2. valves near low end of spec = slightly more performance (valves are opening more), but short interval to checking/adjusting.
3. mid spec adjustment = compromise between 1 & 2.
Just my $0.02
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Abilene, TX
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OK...just getting a little jiggy here, but I wonder if there's any appreciable difference in performance between valves on tighter end versus valves on the loose end? I mean, in my mind's eye I think I'm seeing a slight lift and duration difference, but is it really anything of any consequence? Additionally is there a slight effect on compression of any consequence? Just daydreaming, and no...I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.