kj, I asked about that exhaust air injection system because it is not uncommon for that to cause the red header condition during warmup or a rich condition. Fresh air is introduced after the exhaust valves in an attempt to continue to burn combustible gases for better emissions. This can cause tremendous heat at the header to the extent it will even glow under the right light conditions. But since you have remove it and blocked it off with Bill's plate, that obviously wouldn't be the cause in your case.

 

2 tubes out of the air box? The only 2 I have(pretty sure at least), are the carb line and the crankcase breather vent.

 

Thanks TNC. My main reason for deleting all that crap is because it is super annoying having to worry about routing and connecting everything correctly every time you service the bike. PITA factor basically.



I think the CA model is different from 49 state models in that way. Mine has the crankcase vent plus 2 tubes up top (on the front side of airbox).

 

I've chosen the carb cleaners I'll be using (see the edit in my post on page one). Hope this finally gets me somewhere with this stupid thing! Getting really tired of seeing it in the driveway and not being able to use it! After all the work, time, and money I've poured into this project, I damn well shouldn't be having to deal with stupid issues only 2,500 miles later - so frustrating!

 

If allowed to sit and idle these bike will make the exhaust glow stock, there is really no need to idle the bike that long. I'm not sure if mine still does it with the smog delete and the big bore but since my bike runs excellent I wouldn't pull the carb trying to fix it.

 

Okay long story short, I sprayed some of that PJ1 carb cleaner on the intake boot (between the carburetor and cylinder) for a few seconds and it would kill the engine. This would suggest that it's getting in there through a leak and temporarily restricting air flow, yes? So...pull the carb out for the sixth ****ING (?) time and replace that intake boot with a new one? Am I on the right track here?

 

OK, lets get this straight:
The bike runs great?
You think something is wrong with the bike because the header glows in the dark when idling?
What color is it....bright red or dark red? (many engines will glow the header at idle with zero airflow, BTW)
I don't know how you get it to idle on the main jet without twisting the throttle a whole bunch, which is no longer 'idling'??

You do have an intake leak, either boot or carb or somewhere that needs to be dealt with. This will increase idle speed and lean the mix....might even add a little 'brightness' to the color of your header.

I'd fix the intake leak and leave the carb alone for the time being.

 

I do understand that occasionally, some motorcycles, in a certain state of tune, may glow a little when sitting and idling (the head pipe). This is a lot more than that. It's not just a little mild cherry right out of the cylinder head for a couple inches after idling for five minutes (I've seen that on other bikes). The ENTIRE head pipe glows bright orange, like a big piece of fresh lava. Not sure what you mean by "get it to idle on the main jet..."? It doesn't glow at all during normal idle, but only after a minute or so with choke on. It also glows like that at normal cruising speeds, anything above around 5k RPM/50 mph. I've already cleaned the carb extremely thoroughly. Not sure if you read my last post, but I'm pretty sure that the test I performed does indeed indicate a leak in the carb holder (between carb and engine). I've ordered a new one. That SHOULD solve the problem. I will keep you guys updated. Thanks.

 

Yup, read and re-read posts, you certainly have a leak, so curing that will help with the glowing header. Just to be clear....it gets a bright glow at idle.....but only with choke on?

As for the glowing at cruising speeds I misunderstood and thought you meant it was somehow using the main jet while idling.

I can't look at the KLX right now, it's 300km away, but have a good look for any other place a leak could develop downstream of the carb. You probably know that a vac leak has its greatest effect at smaller throttle openings...smaller that WOT, when the ambient vs. plenum pressures are at their greatest differential

Hope you solve this easily