Yep, Trying that tomorrow. A few hours ago, my brother inlaw told me thats exactly what his coworker did on his 2007. Jumped the black/yellow wire at regulator to the -neg on battery. I'm on it first thing tomorrow. Gotta run out for a tube and fix the front flat first. I should have it done and tested by mid day tomorrow. Thanks man.

Again, Thanks Everyone.... Lot's of great ideas. Feeling like I'm getting closer to finding the problem. Man, I hope.

 

Last friday my klx250s did pretty much the same thing with one exception. Back firing. I did a real quick compression check and found 60 lbs. Yet it will start. It was fine when I went for a 20 mile highway ride only to start acting up at about the 15 mile mark. Just barily made it back home. I am suspection some thing caught in one of the valves. I have one valve at .0015 inch and the rest are fine. When I get a chance I am going to run starter with spark plug out and ex and intake open with an airhose blowing to see if that will clear it. john

 

Any idea what to search for? I tried a bunch of different searches here and didn't find anything about that. While I'm waiting for tomorrow to roll around to try it, I'd like to read something about it. Anything will help. Thanks again.

 

Same thing as your post #31. Getting a solid connection from the ignition module to the negative terminal of the battery, either by a jumper wire to the battery or to chassis ground. The black wires with yellow stripes are your negative/ground wires.

Good luck

Ride on
Brewster

 

Not saying you don't have another problem, but your 60 psi is in the ballpark considering the influence of the KACR on a normal compression check. It interferes with cranking compression readings.

 

Then try the opposite, use a heat gun or hair dryer to artificially heat the suspect component while the engine is running. If it cuts out while heating you may have found the faulty item. Just be careful with the heat gun and it would be a good idea to keep an eye on the temps of the object you are heating up with a laser temp gun. Also slowly work the heat into it, like cooking a steak, you want the heat to transfer evenly through out the object not just on the surface. I wouldn't go too much over 50 degrees centigrade.

 

I do remember a watching a you tube video from a member on here, ARL. His KLX was stopping after a short time riding it. I believe he found that value clearances was the issue.

 

That I know. I meant searching for old threads or posts on the forum to read about this. He said to search for old posts about this fix.

 

Beat me to it, I was about to suggest Valves clearances.

 

Valve clearance was adjusted 800 miles ago. Unlikely the issue, esspecially when it's cutting off exactly like the key is being turned off, sudden. I could recheck them though.