Big Clutch Improvement - 10 mins. 0 Dollars

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  #11  
Old 03-02-2010, 12:06 AM
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Lets just see how many 341's you got BOY!

Anyone in the AF? I had a group of TI's find out just how many 341's I had in my pockets @ Basic
turns out 14 is overkill...... funny to think about now.....not funny at the time
 
  #12  
Old 03-02-2010, 12:33 AM
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Interesting info, thanks.

I have found that the clutch cable is so short that it makes adjustment difficult.
I have noticed a fair amount of drag from time to time.
 
  #13  
Old 03-02-2010, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyFuel
No... wire... hangers. What's wire hangers doing in this closet when I told you: no wire hangers EVER?...

...You've got any more? We're gonna see how many wire hangers you've got in your closet. Wire hangers, why? Why?


I get this!! Funny man
 
  #14  
Old 03-02-2010, 04:42 AM
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So since you seem well versed in clutch mechanics I want to ask you a question to get your opinion. You mention in your original post that the holding force with just 4 of the original springs is sufficient. I would not be surprised becuase in my opinion the clutch on this bike has a very small "feathering zone" (my name for the for the clutch lever travel between fully engaged and fully dissengaged)
Becuase the clutch seems to grab quickly before your mod do you think there is much real world clutch performance difference between mineral oil, synthetic oil for autos, and sythetic oil for motercycles with "Friction modifiers" in it. I have seen in the "my oil is best" threads that some are of the opininion that if you dont use an oil formulated for wet clutches then the clutch will not work as well. I went from standard mineral oil to synthetic auto oil and I cant really see much clutch diff. In fact I would not mind if it slipped a little more Sp do you think type of oil affects the stock KLX clutch properties noticibly? How about after your 4 spring mod?
Cheers Jim
 
  #15  
Old 03-02-2010, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
I'd kinda like to see the video of the:
"slamming into a
near-vertical 8-foot dirt bank then propelling
upward to land on top, with no forward progress, on
a 30-degree uphill slope of loose dirt. Rear tire
landing near the edge on top, still standing, I
start to creep forward after landing, with no loss
of traction."
On your klx250s,,
Yeah, me too!

I've recently gotten into doing vids, buying some simple software.

Here's one of my first goofing around on a trials bicycle after not having done so for 15 years:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwBrkVsL56U

See also my other vids under Zerebrel that catalog other ranch things, like our blizzard and ice storms.

I have long thought about setting up a school on my ranch that teaches dual sport riders (or other) simple trials skills. I've go the perfect place for it, a gravel pit area.

I'll see about making a test video of riding techniques. Problem is I have to do it with a tripod. I start, run over and do something, then come back and turn the camera off. Then edit the vid.
 
  #16  
Old 03-02-2010, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by maninthesea
So since you seem well versed in clutch mechanics I want to ask you a question to get your opinion. You mention in your original post that the holding force with just 4 of the original springs is sufficient. I would not be surprised becuase in my opinion the clutch on this bike has a very small "feathering zone" (my name for the for the clutch lever travel between fully engaged and fully dissengaged)
Becuase the clutch seems to grab quickly before your mod do you think there is much real world clutch performance difference between mineral oil, synthetic oil for autos, and sythetic oil for motercycles with "Friction modifiers" in it. I have seen in the "my oil is best" threads that some are of the opininion that if you dont use an oil formulated for wet clutches then the clutch will not work as well. I went from standard mineral oil to synthetic auto oil and I cant really see much clutch diff. In fact I would not mind if it slipped a little more Sp do you think type of oil affects the stock KLX clutch properties noticibly? How about after your 4 spring mod?
Cheers Jim
Jim:

Thanks for an intelligent question! Yes, this clutch has too narrow a feathering zone. Backing off on spring force fixes that problem. More lever lack also helps, which you can do after the mod because the tendency to drag seeper into the lever travel is gone.

About oils, I have found the difference in friction coefficient to be less a factor than oil viscosity. I've never noticed a difference between synthetics and modifiers. The only exception I remember was an HRC/Montesa trials bike in the late `90s that had a very finicky clutch and woudl only work well with a very specific oil. I did not own that bike, but I heard people talk about firction characteristics. They could have been more helped by viscosity.

There is a big difference in clutch performance between really thin oils and thick ones when you slip-engage the clutch under heavy throttle. If the oil is thinner (like 5W30 or 10W30) then gets really hot, sometimes a clutch will chatter and 'bark' as the plates close up and engage. Thin oils reduce the feathering zone because the plates have less float.

I experimented for a time with mixing motor and gear oils to play with viscocity to tune clutches.

I never use thinner motor oils these days in motorcycles. Always something with 40 or 50 in its upper range. For this test Rotella 15W40. Even in cold weather. I just take care to warm the bike riding it around more gently before hammering the throttle.
 
  #17  
Old 03-02-2010, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Einfahrt
I'm sorry you are afraid, but the risk with this mod is near zero and limited mostly to lack of mechancial skills.
mechanical skills? if u can take ur helmet on and off u can take apart a clutch. but ya like somebody said earlier i would put softer springs on it, definatley not take any out
 
  #18  
Old 03-02-2010, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
I'd kinda like to see the video of the:
"slamming into a
near-vertical 8-foot dirt bank then propelling
upward to land on top, with no forward progress, on
a 30-degree uphill slope of loose dirt. Rear tire
landing near the edge on top, still standing, I
start to creep forward after landing, with no loss
of traction."
On your klx250s,,
LMAO!! me too
 
  #19  
Old 03-02-2010, 02:43 PM
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Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz LOL
 
  #20  
Old 03-02-2010, 06:45 PM
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FYI if you want to see my bar and lever positions, go to my new post:

N.E.P. - A Great Throttle Lock

(or whatever I called it)

Those bars are simple MRS steel Kawasaki low bend. Mmm I think it was low. Anyway they're just a skotch higher than the stock bars.
 


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