Bi-Xenon HID kits?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 09-19-2008, 04:29 AM
Finger Mullet's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,332
Default

Hey guys our stator puts out a lot of juice and a 100 watt halogen is no problem. I'm running one in a baja designs headlight.....to be honest I would not want an hid....this thing is WAY Bright.....still got high/low and that lil 5 watt bulb WestOz was talking about.

I did wire in a kill for all lights....but that was not 100% related to performance or reliability....lol

Got a kickstarter too just in case.
 
  #12  
Old 09-19-2008, 07:48 AM
neilaction's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,985
Default

I don't use this bike at night or for extended road riding.
The only road use it gets is getting to and from the trails.

That being the case I have no use for a high beam light.
So I disconnected it and now have a light I can easily switch off when dirt riding where I may be having to start the bike a lot.
 
  #13  
Old 09-19-2008, 08:50 AM
tremor38's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Misawa Japan
Posts: 3,106
Default

Originally Posted by cliffsta
After doing research on them for my Accord, I've found that it doesn't matter how much light it puts out if the reflecting surface isn't designed for HID.

Another thing to consider is that ballists are fragile. 90% of HID kits you see (especially the cheaper ones; less than a few hundred dollars) have crappy ballists that break. Plus they can't get wet IIRC. Might not be such a good idea for a dirt bike.

Just my .02 good luck with the HID!
Yup, on both points. So as to not beat a dead horse, I'll just say +1 on the reflector design.

I was told the very same thing your are saying about the ballasts when looking at at HID kits for the D-trackers here in Japan. The one's with the good ballasts are nearly twice the price of the unreliable ones. One of the reps said the the cheaper ones had problems with turning of at random times, or just turning off for good...not very comforting!
 
  #14  
Old 09-19-2008, 12:53 PM
foambullets's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 38
Default

Originally Posted by tremor38
Yup, on both points. So as to not beat a dead horse, I'll just say +1 on the reflector design.

I was told the very same thing your are saying about the ballasts when looking at at HID kits for the D-trackers here in Japan. The one's with the good ballasts are nearly twice the price of the unreliable ones. One of the reps said the the cheaper ones had problems with turning of at random times, or just turning off for good...not very comforting!
My mate had one on his rmx250 worked brilliantly for 3 or 4 months then started to flicked and switch on and off, eventually just stopped working all together. I don't think I would buy a cheap kit.
________
Ship Sale
 

Last edited by foambullets; 05-09-2011 at 06:19 PM.
  #15  
Old 09-20-2008, 01:45 AM
LearjetMinako's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,102
Default

If it does fail. The kit comes with a 1 year warranty. VVME.com also claims that their HID kits are waterproof.

I'll only find everything out once I do get it installed and actually road trail test it.
 
  #16  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:17 PM
LearjetMinako's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,102
Default

I got the HID kit in yesterday. I was so joyed, I installed it the same day. It took me 4hrs just trying to figure out how and where to put everything. The ballast was the hardest thing to find a place, but I did manage to find room (just enough room) in the headlight shroud. After said and done, the lighting is a worlds difference. Made the old halogen look like a flashlight with dead batteries. But I also did come across a few problems. One problem is that there is a V-spread of the light. I suspect the bulky front sheild of the HID is to blame and is still a simple fix. Just remove one tiny screw and pop off the front light shield. The major problem I encountered was that when starting the KLX, the HID lamp would sometimes fail to light. Due to the excesive voltage drop when starting. I'm thinking two fixes for this. Either A: Add a capcitor to the HID wiring, or B: Add a manual light switch so it can be turned on after the engine has started.

Now for the bad news. Since I finished around 2300 (11:00PM) and was not thinking right after a few mountain dews and ice tea. Since the lamp startup would sometimes fail. I removed the whole HID kit from the KLX, so its back to halogen. So once again, I'll have to do the kit over. But it will give me a better chance to do a write up. Plus, since I already figured out where everything goes, it will be faster to re-install.

Name:  09-22-08_1759.jpg
Views: 22
Size:  73.3 KB
Name:  09-22-08_1801.jpg
Views: 24
Size:  81.0 KB
Name:  09-22-08_1803.jpg
Views: 23
Size:  53.3 KB

Name:  09-22-08_1931.jpg
Views: 22
Size:  45.9 KB
Name:  09-22-08_1933.jpg
Views: 23
Size:  40.8 KB

Name:  09-22-08_2131.jpg
Views: 24
Size:  67.9 KB
 
  #17  
Old 09-23-2008, 03:33 PM
WestOzKLX's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia.
Posts: 3,229
Default

Cost?
 
  #18  
Old 09-23-2008, 10:47 PM
LearjetMinako's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,102
Default

Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
Cost?
$105 with shipping included. And you get an extra Xenon bulb and ballast.

Originally, the kit was designed for a car. I'm retro fitting to make it work on the KLX. Everything is pretty much plug-&-play. All I've done to it so far is remove the second bulb harness.

I've thought of a plan C. If I can find a relay that stays closed circuit when not energized, and open circuit when energized. I'm thinking I could splice into the starter button so the headlight shut-offs when cranking the engine over. Once the engine starts and I release the starter button, the ballast reconnects and starts the HID headlight again.
 
  #19  
Old 09-24-2008, 12:02 AM
cliffsta's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pineville, LA
Posts: 942
Default

Something else to consider (this may have been mentioned and I missed it) but if I remember correctly, HID lighting (in automobiles) requires the motor to be running, or else you risk damaging the ballast.

IDK, I wish you the best of luck. I just wouldn't be very confident putting an HID setup designed for the (relative) security of an automobile engine bay onto a dirt bike exposed to far greater vibrations and environmental elements. It'll be super-cool if you pull it off, though!
 
  #20  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:56 PM
LearjetMinako's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,102
Default

Oh, I will pull it off. After having a taste of how much better the HID were. I want it installed. Winter driving is going to be a little brighter, thou I'll still freeze in the 20*F temps.

I found the relay I needed. It was a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay. Which will allow the circuit to be closed until the relay is energized, then it will open the circuit.

Tonight I'll try to get the Halogen photos as the before shots. And then do the conversion and get photos of that. I'll most likely be doing the conversion, again, on Saturday.
 


Quick Reply: Bi-Xenon HID kits?



All times are GMT. The time now is 03:36 PM.