Would someone please post a link to Bernies timing mod?

Thanks
Ride on
Brewster

Brewster: Starts around post #7

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...klx250s-41934/

GTech recommends not using their meter on motorcycles. But who knows, if you mounted one down at or near the rear axle it might be accurate. Or if worse came to worse-you bought one and it wasn't working well mounted on the bike, you could tow it on a very small trailer

Also, in order for the Gtech's results to be accurate & meaningful, all timing must start from a complete standstill, and all motion must be on a flat and smooth surface. Motorcycles generally exhibit a bit of pitch under hard acceleration, especially powerful/fast bikes. This pitch effect will negatively impact the accuracy of your results (it cannot be quantified in a blanket statement, the effect varies on a case-by-case basis.)

I remember my bike hitting the rev limiter seemingly all the time when it was stock with snorkel etc, before I knew there was a limiter. It wasn't making as much power though, just revving thru the gears.


With the 36mm carb I thought I'd previously noticed that I'd hit the limiter at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle with no problem if I let it rev a second or two at mid throttle, but it wouldn't hit the limiter as easily or maybe not at all at WOT.

I guess that'd mean something regarding jetting or carb size etc, but I'm not sure what. The 36 main jet size is where is should be.


I thought about getting this stock flywheel lightened, but it's be easier to just have a 3mm extension welded to the lightened flywheel for only $7. I can always grind it off at a later date, and it'd let me try to compare the timing effect on both a stock and .5lb lighter flywheel.

I'll play with it for a week or so then decide on whether to have the other one done.

Roughly how much does it cost to do a couple side-by-side runs on a Dynojet motorcycle specific dyno?

If you're referring to me doing dyno runs, the closest one to me is 918km away in Manila; a very long boat ride...

Some dynos in the west charge per run, some per hour. Depends how fast you can change parts for the second run I guess.

No, you are doing more than your fair share!

I just learned there is a motorcycle dyno near me, and I'm thinking about adding some data to the pool of knowledge, if it is not terribly expensive. I'm traveling for work now, maybe I'll call them when I get home. Just wondering roughly what to expect.

Well, guess I'd better chime in .. You can expect about $75.00 for a run with AFR sensing.
Each run is , usually, 3 pulls. If your operator is not knowledgeable on our KLX's , he may not rev it out far enough or too far - start the metering soon enough, use the correct gear ect ect...

If you are doing a component or mod before and after test, you should be able to work out a deal for the 2 runs. At this point, my shop charges me 80.00 to do a 2 RUN "shoot out"...

Go in prepared - Tell em you want 4k to 9.5k(or a little higher if you like) "roll on" pulls in 4th gear with AFR. SAE corrected , with current conditions and CF ( correction factor) on the chart. Take a thumb drive and tell em to put the 3 separate charts ( HP, TRQ, AFR) on it for you off the dyno computer.

Thanks, just what I'm looking for.

The place near me has a Dynojet motorcycle dyno and is a Kawasaki dealer. I'm hoping they might find my ferociously modded little bike 'cute' and work with me.

Most likely they will probably try to sell me a KLR or a Ninja. lol.

I was thinking of tying the front end down for the GTECH runs. The trailer idea would work, but it would be a pain to set up. As long as there was repeatability, it doesn't really matter what the numbers are.