Everyone should invest in an inexpensive multimeter to help diagnose electrical problems like this. Harbor Freight has them for under $20 usually and 30 minutes in the Internet will get you basics of operation to be able to trouble common charging and continuity issues. I have four or five of them scattered around the garage, boat, jeep, etc.

 

OK, found the main fuse in the manual. I'll check it out at home tonight.

I agree with the multimeter comment. I have one and know how to use it. The battery should be measured in DC volts, and be in the range of 12-13V. I know how to check for continuity, and do fine when it comes to lights/horns/etc, where resistance is either 0 or 1. I just don't know what readings to expect when diagnosing certain ignition components. I'm not even sure what ignition components there ARE on this bike, really.

If the problem isn't the fuse or the ignition switch, this is going to be a very long thread indeed.

 

The main fuse was blown. I'll replace it tonight and check for ground failures. I found one butt connector where the plastic was worn away; I'm betting that's the culprit. Do the tail lights go through the main fuse, or is that a different circuit?

 

The tail light power also goes through the fuse labeled* "10A IGNI" which is after the Main fuse.
*going by my '09

 

Also?? Strange, then, that the 20A fuse blew, but the 10A fuse did not. I have a '12; I'll look into it tonight. Really looking forward to some time in the garage. Even more, I'm looking forward to a nice ride.

 

Poor wording on my part?
From the main fuse power goes to the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is on, power then goes through the "10A IGNI" fuse to the lights.
I would have expected the 10A to be blown not the Main.
This is all from the '09 wiring diagram which I think is still valid for your '12 since nothing other than the color of the plastics is known to be changed.

 

If the 10A light fuse did not blow, I would not research anything on that circuit. You did say you found a broken connector, hope that was it.

 

I replaced the main fuse and the bike turns on, starts, and runs like a charm again. I found a wire with a connector that had been rubbed bare. I think the intermittent flashing of the screen was from the wire tap tap tapping against the frame and grounding out. I wrapped everything with electrical tape and will add another fuse to my tool kit, just in case it happens again.

PS, Once the bike failed, I could bump start the bike in second gear, but it ran like absolute crap. If I stopped, it would stall again. If it was a multi-cylinder engine, I would have said one of the cylinders wasn't firing.

 

Which connector, where on the frame was it shorting?

 

I replaced the stock tail light and signals with a small LED from an enduro lighting kit. I used automotive butt connectors and looped the extra wires under the seat. The plastic shield of the connector was either worn away because it was pinched or cracked from when I crimped it and didn't notice.

My issue, not the bike.