I live in central arkansas i want as much as I can get out of my dynojet kit any suggestions would be great thanks!

 

Without any information on your setup no one is going to be able to help you. Here's a link to a spreadsheet with others' jetting info.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...=sharing#gid=0

 

Wow, that spreadsheet is awesome.

 

Yeah, a little more specific info about your bike and your exact altitude would help. My general assessment would be a starting point of a 128 DJ main jet, DJ needle in 3rd clip from top, #35 stock pilot jet, and 2 turns out on the fuel/air screw. If you have some more serious mods like a big bore kit, open airbox, and performance pipe, these settings will probably vary more.

 

I pulled the snorkel out of air box installed a uni filter and installed a fmf power core 4 slip on I put the 128 jet in and put dj needle in 3rd slot from top I turned my air fuel 2 3/4 turns out just really wanted to know more about the air fuel screw everyone seems to have a different opinion on how to set it

 

Not sure the adjustment of the fuel/air screw is really opinion driven. The general instructions provided about turing the screw in and out to find the optimum "middle" position for best idle is really the proper way to find that "sweet spot". Getting to the screw is the hardest part and why many go to the Kouba screw so you can more easily access turning that screw while the bike is running.

 

Or you can use a small flat-head bit and adjust it with your fingers. It's a little tricky at first and you probably wouldn't want to do it while the engine is running. But it's a cheap alternative.

 

Yeah, but if you can't do the fine adjustment with the engine running, doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose of finding the ideal sweet spot? Keihin really made this process quite difficult, I guess mainly due to making tampering with it hard due to emissions issues. Even with the Kouba screw, you'd better have some heat resistant gloves or use a hook-tool or such to turn that sucker when the engine is hot and running. I found that applying a tiny bit of antiseize on the threads of the Kouba screw make this a little easier...just don't back it out too much, of course.

 

Too bad that kouba screw doesn't fit in the TM carb.

Or does it?

 

Scott, the nice thing about the Mikuni screw is that you can easily access it with a pair of relatively long needle nose pliers. Pliers sound horribly neaderthal for carb tuning, but the needle turns easily, and you can even snap a hard rubber cap over the end of the screw for more protection. The fact that the head of the needle sticks down where you can get to it is at least a plus.