Well, I have just about decided that I went the wrong direction with my clip the last time I was adjusting stuff in the carb. About 2 weeks ago I pulled everything apart and dropped in a #40 pilot and moved my needle from the 3rd slot down to the 4th from the top. I was convinced that I was running lean in the mid-range. At the same time, though, since I was adding so much fuel, I decided to go with no lid on the airbox. I previously had the double snorkel in place. My thought process with that by adding a whole bunch more fuel and a medium amount of extra air, that I would end up with a good balance. Well, I think that I overdid it with the fuel, so I want to drop my clip back to the 3rd slot. Ideally, though, I would like to avoid pulling the carb all the way out to do that.

I have read where some of you loosen the hose clamps and rotate the carb in position to adjust the air screw. I think some of you have even pulled the top cap off of the carb and adjusted your needle clip. That is where I have a question or two.

1. How do you keep from disturbing the diaphragm? Even with the carb on my benchtop I have always have a heck of a time getting that bad boy seated back right. I can't imagine trying to do that with the carb in the bike.
2. Is there a trick to getting the spring and needle out? Or do you just pull the whole slide out, make the change and then wrestle that @#%!# diagphram back in to the groove? Please tell me there is an easier way.[:@]

Thanks,
Chris

 

you can pull it out on the bike. it all comes out together. try putting the diaphram in the freezer to make it shrink a little then install it quickly

 

klxstiffler, I was afraid you were going to say that. I will give it a try, but I expect I will have some problems just because I have to use the freezer trick just to get it to work out when the carb is on my bench top. I must have clumsy hands our something because it takes me forever to get that thing seated properly in the groove. I might be overthinking it some because I am afraid or ripping/pinching it when putting the cover back on.

Thanks,
Chris

 

the freezer trick works for me . kinda funny how things seem to shrink when they get cold

 

Excellent idea!

Too bad none of the other carb adjustments are that easy!

 

This won't apply in your case, but for others who are reading this thread here's someting to pay attention to if you try that while on the bike. When I pulled the diaphramcover on myCVK for the first time, the diaphram stuck to the lid. You may want to take a small screwdriver push down the edge while you carefully and slowly lift one corner of the cover to make sure that doesn't happen.

 

Thanks, all. Iowaguy, can you describe a little more how you reached in to get the needle. I can't think of anything thin enough to go down into the slide cavity that will also allow me to grip the needle & nylon space to pull it up. I thought about using a magnetic pickup rod, but I guess the other metal in the carb will cause me a problem there. Maybe if I am very careful I can hold it in the center and pull it out. Kind of like the game "Operation".

If I am thinking of this incorrectly, let me know. Otherwise, my plan will be as follows:

1. Remove seat, shrouds and tank.
2. Remove diaphragm cover.
3. Try to get needle out without disturbing disphragm.
4. If that doesn't work, pull the whole thing.
5. Change the clip position to 3rd (middle) slot.
6. Put diaphragm into freezer.
7. Apply a few small small dots of Vasoline to the diaphragm seat groove in the carb. (Thanks Marty - great idea)
8. Pull diaphragm from freezer and quickly put into place.
9. Replace cover.
10. Rejoice!

 

Iowaguy, i used that link for my carb rejetting too... I understand what freezing does shrinks it.. but why the warm water? wouldnt that expand it... i used warm water and it worked for me... but i just dont know why... ??