Did anyone ever discover the fix for hot starting problems? I just finished reading thru all the threads on the subject and could not find anything definitive. I just rejetted and cleaned the carb off the bike, check for leaks in the boots.

The bike starts great cold down to 40 degrees F on first on second try with choke on, with 1/4 throttle, havent tried with no throttle. If I turn off the bike with the key it will start again first try, 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Heres the mistery, if the bike stalls pulling away, like from a stoplight, it no longer starts, no matter the throttle position or closed throttle.

Happened last night after a 1 hour ride and it took about 5 minutes of trying to get it to start. Happened again this morning after riding for 10 minutes and it didnt start until I opened the choke. Jetting or other issue?

Current setup: stock filter w/no lid, FMF PC4 exhaust, dynojet kit: needle 3rd clip, 124 main, starter jet drilled, mixture screw set at 2 1/4 turns out, 5k feet elevation, 50-60 degrees F. I would appreciate any help on this as I can't think of anything besides jetting or valve adjustment. Id like to rule out everything else before the valves since I dont have ready access to shims down in Mexico. Sorry for the long post.

 

Why do you open the throttle with a CV carb! Once it dies, don't touch the throttle and see how it starts first. Then if it doesn't start you can start playing with all the *****!
Otherwise no suggestions, maybe float level or stucky float?

 

Tried that, it doesnt work for me on this bike, even if the bike didn't stall, it will only start with the throttle partly opened. Since this is happening only during low speed stalls in 1st gear, admittedly due to my bad clutch work, could the stall be causing the plug to foul?

 

I rarely have to give any throttle during starting, especially when warm.

 

Have you checked valve clearances?

 

I didn't realize there was a relatively widespread "hot start" problem with the KLX. You mostly hear about the cold start problems that some experience. That said, MP's suggestion about valve clearance is also a possibility depending on the last setting interval, but that's usually something more cold engine related too. On plug fouling, it's almost next to impossible to flood the engine with a CV carb unless you're constantly trying run with the choke on.

 

TNC, I didn't mean to imply this was a wide spread issue, but it isn't unheard of either as I found several threads on the subject. I only run the choke to start the bike cold in the morning.
https://www.google.com/search?q=site...22hot+start%22

MAX, that's next on my list after I back out the mixture screw to 2 3/4 turns. Thankfully this is only happening during stalls.

Cheers

 

Do you adj your mixture screw by turns or by engine tune?

 

durielk, are you asking what I've done or what the proper method is? I being using trial and error, although I do know the proper method of finding the mid point according to engine revs. I haven't done this because I dont have a kouba screw. However, I cut a screw driver tip and glued it to a nut. Not as good as a kouba screw but it works. I will use it to properly tune the mixture screw.

 

well if you dont have that air screw adj properly, as the first thing to do, why are you looking for help & advise on somehting that is out of tune?
Your fix is to tune the carb.