Amsoil in my KLX

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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 12:59 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by zomby woof
It's not the clutch that's hard on oil, it's the gears. I also use Rotella, but there are many good quality oils. Just stay away from the energy conserving oils. They can cause clutch slippage problems.
I spent hundreds of dollars on Used Oil Analysis, and this post pretty much sums up what makes the most sense.

It's not worth fretting over on this engine/transmission setup. It's not a high-performance "on the edge" kind of deal. Just get the correct viscosity, and don't leave it in for a long time (1000-2000 miles is plenty long)...even if you choose to spend money on oils labeled as "synthetic".

BTW, "synthetic" is now a marketing term, not a scientific term, ever since Castrol won a lawsuit against Mobil. Since then, MOST oils labeled "synthetic" are actually severely hydrocracked petroleum based oil.

YMMV. OAC. Not FDIC Insured. Caveat Emptor. Your Momma is calling.
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 02:58 AM
  #12  
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I run with Rotella 15W-40 dinosaur oil. Change oil every ~1K miles and filter every ~2k miles, so far. Rotella's not too expensive, after all, and is available most anywhere.

Examined stock cylinder/piston at upgrade to BB 351 and no problems due to oil. Continuing with my oil regime going forward...
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 03:14 AM
  #13  
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Should I use Pam, butter or Olive Oil (extra virgin, of course) when frying eggs in a cast iron pan? And how about the stainless pan, somthing different?

Oh ya, the bike; Castrol 10-40. That other stuff is too hard to find in the boonies!!
 

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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 03:22 AM
  #14  
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Rotella 15W-40 dino oil here too. I only have 2000 miles on it.

My KLX has horrible downshifts (as in won't downshift sometimes), but different oil/level/hot/cold/old/new hasn't fixed it... so I'm back to Rotella.
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 03:34 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Blackheart58

It's not worth fretting over on this engine/transmission setup. It's not a high-performance "on the edge" kind of deal. Just get the correct viscosity, and don't leave it in for a long time (1000-2000 miles is plenty long)...even if you choose to spend money on oils labeled as "synthetic".

BTW, "synthetic" is now a marketing term, not a scientific term, ever since Castrol won a lawsuit against Mobil. Since then, MOST oils labeled "synthetic" are actually severely hydrocracked petroleum based oil.
As a member of the mutual admiration society, I'd have to say that this is the smartest, and most honest post I've read in a long time

It's all true. Synthetic is better, but it really is marketing now. Pretty much anything is fine if you change it frequently.
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ol'klx-er
Should I use Pam, butter or Olive Oil (extra virgin, of course) when frying eggs in a cast iron pan? And how about the stainless pan, somthing different?

Oh ya, the bike; Castrol 10-40. That other stuff is too hard to find in the boonies!!
Bacon fat!
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 12:37 PM
  #17  
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(This is all your fault, Mash!!)
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 01:38 PM
  #18  
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I run rotella 15/40 in my klx - 11,000 miles and runs perfectly.. the bike is a beast. I run mobile-1 20w50 in my Husaberg... no problems so far.. KLX engine is so reliable its bulletproof
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by T_i_G_e_R
I run mobile-1 20w50
I see a lot of people saying good things about that oil, but I can only find the cheap, generic mobil 1. Must be a chinese rip off of the real mobile 1.
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Lotrat
Rotella 15W-40 dino oil here too. I only have 2000 miles on it.

My KLX has horrible downshifts (as in won't downshift sometimes), but different oil/level/hot/cold/old/new hasn't fixed it... so I'm back to Rotella.
Make sure your shift lever isn't hitting something on your frame/skidplate. It can also be worse if the lever is loose. Something isn't right, and it's not the oil...
 



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