I have noticed that most folks are going with Pro Taper bars. Which set? Most that I have been able to find are listed for the KX or KDX. Does it matter?

 

Go with the Renthal bars for the latest model KX250 in 7/8's diameter (same size as oem).

 

I'm running Pro Taper SE (Seven-Eighths) bars. I got the CR High Bend, basically because I liked the feel of them. Any 7/8" bar will work. The differences lie in the height, sweep angle, and width.

 

Went with Nobrakes recommendation of the Renthal "McGrath, Lusk & Stewart" bend. The bars work for me, and readily accepted the MSR Hawkins bark busters. I did fit some Renthal open ended grips and modified the throttle tube for a cleaner install (dremel'ed the extra ridge where the stock grip's recess fit onto it). Also dremel'ed off the locating pins on the right and left switchhousings(these fit into a hole in the stock bars). Turns out that the housings fit just fine without them, that is, they don't slip after tightening them up.

 

I'm running Pro Taper SE (Seven-Eighths) barsKX High Bend

 

Anyone had any experience with bars from; Pitposse,Fly or MSR. I know to pay premium on most items but Bars???
What are the benefits of Protaper & Renthal? If you buy a cheaper bar you can add the anti vibration stuff for the same price as the more expensive bar.
What about those bars that Patrick has on his bike, with the built in suspension. Anyone got a comment on them?

 

Have you priced the bars that patrick has.....big $$, but I bet he got them for free. My pro-tapers were about $60 with the pad.

 

I have the aluminum MSR bars. They were about $50. They work well and have tolerated the abuse.

 

Hey John, I'm considering those KX High Bend bars for my KLX... any cabling/slack issues? Thanks.

-EJ

 

No issues at all, it was a simple bolt on procedure that didnt even require any cable removal or adjustments.Just loosen thecontrol hold down bolts, then remove the handlebar clamp bolts followed by the bar itself and slidethem off as assemblies. You will have to dremel off some plastic nubs/pins that are on the control covers because Kawi has holes drilled into the factory bars to align your controls but this procedure is required with any aftermarket bar. Its better without them anyway because it allows you to rotate and position the controls for your personal comfort.

The KX-HI bars arent that much taller than stock, but if you look in the picture you can see that the front brake cable isnt sticking up near the center bar like the factory bars which makes seeing the speedo much better imo and still has plenty of slack.